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Longer gear lever?

Since I bought some comfy new boots which are considerably bigger than the old I have had a problem with the gearchange on the 60 99. A relaxed riding position allows light pressure on the lever to block the action of the selector return . raising the footrest seems to be the logical answer but has not done the trick. Lowering the lever on the spline just puts the lever too low to easily get the toes under, I'm thinking that a longer lever would put the rubber in a better place nearer the narrower toe part of the boot. I think the current lever is 6 1/2 inches C/C ,anyone's bike have something longer?, also would need to fit the spline ,I already have a couple of new shiney chrome levers that don't fit spline!!.

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Robert - my guess is WD16H lever. Don't know if splines are the same but I expect so and might be able to check. It is longer and turned down at the front.

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I'm afraid a 16H lever won't fit - the spline hole is too big. There's usually a bit to play around with when it comes to the footrest - maybe take a look at the spacer that locates in the engine plate that has the two lugs on it - either turn it through 180 degrees (you may have to file a flat on it to clear the crankcase) or file the lugs to give a little more play. You could try bending the gear-lever a fraction or even a slimmer rubber. The other option is to get an old lever and cut it up to use a piece to elongate yours - get whoever welds it to put plenty of meat around the join and grind it to profile. I recently did this to restore a shortened lever on my Manx, once re-chromed there's no sign of the join.

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Hi Ian, I will try a slimmer rubber,however 3 bouts of gout has left me with an ultra sensitive big toe joint so that would be harder on the foot. I have already cut up one brand new Norton gearlever to add to the little Ducati one and form a rocking pedal for that. The Rudge lever was at least 2" too long so a cut and shut was done to that, happily thats a left hand change. I may have to join the Commando brigade with the left hand change, disc brakes and electric start.

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Made a temporary lever from a rearset part and some pieces. Will use it for first testruns of the bike. If it works as expected, I'll do a proper one.

Attachments gearlever-jpg
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Just a thought - is your gear-change stiff? It's just that my AMC boxes are really easy changing up or down - i.e. minimal pressure. Except once when the cam-plate plunger (that fits under the gearbox) became worn and notched resulting in a really stiff change. I now smooth the 'point' slightly when fitting a new one. It's worth checking if you haven't already done so. You could also try putting a copper washer under the sleeve nut that holds it to lessen the plunger spring pressure (slightly)to make gear changes easier.

Cheers,

Ian.

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Hi Ian, my change was stiff ,but I have spent a lot of time going thro the box and clutch and its now very light and with no clutch drag. The problem is more one of BIGFOOT since I had to buy bigger boots to help with the bad foot .A longer lever would help ,but the std 1960 lever is already the longest I have seen on a Norton with the AMC box. After all the work I put in I can now go through the 4 gears while stationry and without the engine running, never managed that before.

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Previously robert_tuck wrote:

Hi Ian, my change was stiff ,but I have spent a lot of time going thro the box and clutch and its now very light and with no clutch drag. The problem is more one of BIGFOOT since I had to buy bigger boots to help with the bad foot .A longer lever would help ,but the std 1960 lever is already the longest I have seen on a Norton with the AMC box. After all the work I put in I can now go through the 4 gears while stationry and without the engine running, never managed that before.

I got one off of Ebay it was £23 and as discribed by Andover Norton (rogue parts) longer and the spline did not fit. But a few hrs with a needle file and engneers blue and a bit of carefull bending and it does he required job as a reverse lever on my moded MK3.

I normaly use Andover Norton for parts, but even their description of rogue parts is useful.

"You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you might find you get what you need. I also have the BIGFOOT problem proper feet at 12" or 1 foot in old money.

 


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