Laydown gearbox mainshaft Shims?

Is this any good?

http://racingnorton.co.uk/epages/4c675e64-813f-4c0a-8926-87a680c962a0.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/4c675e64-813f-4c0a-8926-87a680c962a0/Products/"0405%20A2/324S"

dont know if this will help

https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/mainshaft-bearing-packing-washer_602.htm?sid=1310720

Hi David, it's a while since I had my laydown box opened, but isn't No. 78 an oil slinger for the main shaft open bearing? My laydown box had an alarming amount of end float on the bench, but when fitted and the clutch push rod is correctly adjusted, the end float is taken up. The push rod stops the clutch from drifting towards the box when adjusted. Have youmeasured the end float accurately, as it is generally a lot less than estimated.

Previously Paul Knapp wrote:

Hi David, it's a while since I had my laydown box opened, but isn't No. 78 an oil slinger for the main shaft open bearing? My laydown box had an alarming amount of end float on the bench, but when fitted and the clutch push rod is correctly adjusted, the end float is taken up. The push rod stops the clutch from drifting towards the box when adjusted. Have youmeasured the end float accurately, as it is generally a lot less than estimated.

I think you are mixing up the flinger /oil seal part 16 in this diagram with part 78. 0.005 to 0.010 " is recommended, I believe. For the AMC box the various thickness rear isolastic shims for the commando are suitable. Not sure of suitability for the laydown.

To reduce all that slop, loosen the pinch bolt on the worm actuating arm (Under cover plate R/H side of box) then with a screw driver, turn the worm clockwise till there is virtually no play on the rod,(leave the tiniest amount)then holding this position, pull downwards the arm that the cable end is attached to as far as it will swing, then tighten pinch bolt.

i thought this was number 16 on the diagram

https://www.rgmnorton.co.uk/buy/sleeve-gear-oil-retaining-washer-shim-pre-amc-gearbox_671.htm?sid=1310720

'Packing Washer' seems the wrong name to me; Isn't it the 'pen steel' oil retaining plate ? It actually sits in a recess behind the bearing so doesn't have a shim function...and they do often pick-up and spin.

Late model Doll's Heads and upright boxes have a 'dished steel washer' fitted between mainshaft 1st and the bearing in the inner cover. The amount of movement that you have might be best dealt with in that way.

It may be something that you've looked at but the clutch operating worm on these boxes is quite 'slow' and won't lift if the handlebar levers are pattern types with only 7/8" between pivot and nipple centre. I believe that they are usually 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" on some models.

Previously richard_payne wrote:

'Packing Washer' seems the wrong name to me; Isn't it the 'pen steel' oil retaining plate ? It actually sits in a recess behind the bearing so doesn't have a shim function...and they do often pick-up and spin.

Late model Doll's Heads and upright boxes have a 'dished steel washer' fitted between mainshaft 1st and the bearing in the inner cover. The amount of movement that you have might be best dealt with in that way.

It may be something that you've looked at but the clutch operating worm on these boxes is quite 'slow' and won't lift if the handlebar levers are pattern types with only 7/8" between pivot and nipple centre. I believe that they are usually 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" on some models.

Richard has `hit the nail on the head` with his comment. Until I obtain correct levers, I have had to fit pattern levers on both my renovated ES2 and my 19S. Pivots are wrong on the levers and I have had to take quite a drastic action of cutting, bending and rewelding the clutch levers so that I can actually use the clutch. Both bikes now work well....but the levers look dreadful.