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International Model 30 clutch

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Hello All

Can anyone help with advice on the clutch for my featherbed International Model 30?

Whilst running the bike with the chaincase removed, I noticed that the clutch basket/chainwheel was running eccentically by perhaps 1/8 inch or more. As the clutch drags badly when in gear & with the lever pulled in, I decided to strip it downto work out what was going on. Generally, it is quite good condition butI found that the Ferodo inserts in the basket were loose, whichseems to be the cause of the movement. I have checked that the clutch centre runs true on the gearbox mainshaft and there is less than 5 thou runout. I have not tried riding the bike yet to observe what happens to the clutch basketwhen it is in gear.

This is my first experience of a Norton clutch so forgive me if I am asking some stupid questions:

1. Are the inserts supposed to be loose? - I had assumed not.

2. Assuming they are supposed to be a tight fit, is there a recommended way to fit them?

3. Does anyone know a source for new inserts?

4. An Indian based supplier is selling a complete new basket with inserts for £55. Does anyone have experience of parts supplied from India? - I have heard mixed reports!

5 Would an AMC clutch be a better solution? - I am told that it is interchangeable with the Norton type andit does look a slightly better design to me - especially as it eliminates the inserts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Rgds to all

Mark

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The AMC clutch will work but it means a complete swap. It might be worth having a talk / e-mail exchange with Ken McIntosh in NZ. He has a number of solutions for sorting the earlier clutches (I recommend his springs and adjusters too).

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Hi.

The concentricity of the clutch chain wheel isn't dependent on the inserts. Unless you mean side to side play of the chain wheelwhich these clutches often have.

If the chainwheel is running eccentrically, check the clutch rollers aren't worn and the surfaces on which they run. Also check for wear in the clutch shock absorber and rubbers (sometimes rubber can 'smear' under the shock absorber vanes causing the drum to run out of true)although if you drum is running true it doesn't sound like the shock absorberisthe problem.

Although the AMC clutch is better, the Norton one isn't that bad. The inserts are often loose but unless they are severely worn it's not usually a problem. New ones are often up on Ebay or try Russell Motors. RGM does friction plates for the Norton clutchwith the pads 'stuck' on which can take out some of the 'slop'.

You don't say what year your bike is, has it an AMC or a Laydown box? I think I'm right in saying the distance between the handlebar lever's pivot to the centre of the cable nipple should be 1 & 1/16 of an inch on the laydown box. The amount of mainshaft endfloat is also critical with the laydown box. If either of the latter two examples is the problem, fitting an AMC clutch will not solve it.

If you have an AMC box then the pivot to lever distance should be 7/8". Fitting an AMCclutch from a 650/750(which has an extra friction plate) will mean you won't have to screw the springs in so much making it considerably lighter. You can also fit an extra friction and plain plateto the earlier AMCclutch but you need to turn down and reduce the thickness of the alloy pressure plate otherwiseit will wear against the outer chaincase.

Lastly, check you lever pivots aren't worn, make sure that your clutch cable is well lubed, that the clutch is properly adjusted, that the pressure plate runs true when you pull the clutch lever in (adjust the clutch spring screws), that the screws aren't screwed all the way home - the studs should not be proud of the screw heads. These latter two pointsapply to an AMC box with Norton clutch, the laydown box should have a pushrod with aclutch 'mushroom' which shouldhelp it lift true.

Hope this helps.

Ian.

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hi Mark

I bought a tool box from India for a BSA I have.It was terrible.60 pounds .it didnt fit, workmanship rubbish and it was going to cost 50 pounds to send back,so I put it down to expierience and took the hit.It may have been bad luck but I would never buy from India again.There was an article in Road holder or VMCC I think, about tanks from India with fitting problems also,

Ian

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Hello all

Thanks for all the advice. After checking his website, Ken McIntosh in NZ does offer a service to re-line old-style Norton clutch baskets with new friction material at a reasonable cost so that may be the way for me to go. In answer to Ian Allen, the concentricity of my clutch assembly is fine. The problem is that the clutch basket is able to float side to side when it is engaged and the engine is idling in neutral. This movement is defined by the thickness of the clutch basket inserts and must amount to some 5mm or so. It did occur to me that this movementis 'by design' and that once in gear and moving, the whole assembly tightens up and aligns itself. I have not ridden the bike with the chaincase off yet to see if this is the case. It also occured to me that this clutch type would be plagued by clutch drag thus causingnotchy engagement of first gearfrom standstill and difficulty in finding neutral.

To me, the AMC design looks marginally better and would be less likely tosuffer fromclutch drag when the lever is pulled in. If I get my clutch basket modified by McIntosh and make some other sensible mods such as using an AMC alloy pressure plate with counterbored spring retainer holes, new spring pillars/springs/adjusters,alloy spring cups etc, I will end up with a clutch that should work properly (fingers crossed!).

Once again, thanks for all your help, it is much appreciated. I have given up on the idea of buying an Indian made part - too risky!

 


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