Stator / Rotor air gap adjustment ?

... a bit of clearance of the studs in the mounting holes and the stator can generally be persuaded into place. Leave the nuts just catching and give a gentle tap with a rubber hammer in the desired direction.

I think the original instructions were to use feeler gauge strips around the perimeter of the rotor (when it has been fixed in position) and then bolt the stator on.  There is no adjuster, as such, but the feelers should maintain the gap when you tighten the bolts.  Many years ago I used to get the gauge strips from Vauxhall dealers, but you could use 3 feeler gauges - if you have them.
Dunno what thickness you are supposed to have as I haven't found the required air gap data yet.

I hope you meant 0.008".  And that's a minimum gap, checked at all core ends, with crankshaft rotated right round 360 degrees.

There have been reports on https://www.accessnorton.com of Wassell's new "Lucas" stators burning out, which may be caused by lack of clearance leading to rubbing.

This is the season for this hardy chestnut which I have responded to in the past and one that I have carried out myself.
I followed Norman Whites tip by reducing the retaining bolts down to their core diameter i.e. the bottom of the thread depth, the plain area behind the threads.
This allows plenty of leeway for adjustments to attain .008" using feeler gauges around the periphery of the rotor.

Has been my gauge of choice. No magnetic movement and easily cut with scissors.  Of course keeping things imperial....,   I always use "Inches" .

Hve met this problem many times. I position 6 pieces of plastic milk bottle strips around the rotor before tightening the (slack) stator stud nuts. If still too tight, you can enlarge the stator holes slightly by careful filing. This has always worked for me and no burned out stators!

If you use this method for reducing the studs to get the clearance, then the stator might just move back! in which case you are worse off than when you started.
The following has been done BUT is to be done with a lot of care. You can file the inside of the stator BUT that would invalidate any guarantee. You could also invalidate any guarantee by turning a A FEW THOU off of the rotor.
PS Just be thankful you do NOT own an AJS/M!

Embarassed to admit that i just give the studs a mild whack with a plastic faced hammer in the required direction .  Has always worked for me-------. 

I'm not saying my opinion is worth all that much, but I think that sounds like there isn't safe clearance there.

In the past, I have often found that the Resin used to coat the Stator Windings had lumps poking out on the inside. This, in turn, has made getting a reasonable clearance all round the Rotor very difficult.
So I set up my Pillar Drill, with a flap wheel, and proceeded to smooth the inner finish of the Stator with a few seconds of rotary motion..
The Stator iron cores prevent the flap wheel from removing too much of the resin and I have never ever found bare wires showing afterwards.

Some report using a PET bottle (litre of lemonade or similar) to make a collar all the way round when tightening it all.

Paul's words above re the sizer, good job that didn't happen on the motorway!

. . .seem to be reducing the possibility of moving the stator, jamming it in one position. This is how it looks to me from what I can see from the photos. Smaller washers may help, or alternatively I seem to recall obtaining reduced hex nuts from one of the major vendors, probably Norvil, for the stator on one of my Dommies many moons ago.

Those new Lucas/Wassell stators also have quite a bit of potting around the mounting holes which can be dremelled away to create more clearance, so long as you're careful. 

You have a number of suggested options here in amongst the comments.
If you have access to a lathe this method will show up any discrepancies in the roundness of the stator or rotor for that matter and you then have a choice as to which component you need to  machine.
Internal measuring of the bore of the stator at various points will seek out the high and low points also.
To test the rotor you can do it whilst bolted to the crankshaft and set up a pointer or DTI with or without the engine running, bare in mind that there may be a certain amount of crank run out which will certainly impact on the clearance.
The mention of a flapper wheel being used can be a quick fix if these suggestions are not a practical answer in your case. The marks you show on your stator should be enough to start the process.

Wayne - There is usually a gap between the outer of the stator and the lip of the stator holder.  Your image shows a gap at the bottom but a tight fit at the top.  So either the holder is misshaped or the stator isn't correct.  If the bike was mine I would remove the stator and rotor and if the holder is well secured to the crankcase i would tap the top of the holder firmly outward and upwards until a gap is evident ( 1mm will be enough gap ).  Then you should be able to set your rotor/stator gap using a toffee hammer in accordance with the waisted stator holder studs as someone has already mentioned.  Good luck, Howard 

They are stronger than they look.  Done it many times without breaking one.  Cheers, Howard

Hi Wayne,
At the beginning of your post, you say you have fitted a new rotor and stator, then you find that there is insufficient clearance, and later you make it clear that this is not something you can adjust, so surely this item is not fit for purpose.
Have you gone back to your supplier and asked for their response?

If you bought a spare wheel for your car and the holes did not line up, you would not think for a moment about moving the holes. Why should new bits for an old motorcycle be any different?

Tony

Of course they didn't come out of the factory like this!!! that was over 60yrs ago, Lucas who made the original stator/rotor have long gone and we are stuck with far Eastern parts 'similar' to what we used to have, you will also find there is negligible technical back up and understanding from Wassell so do NOT expect modern manufacture far Eastern parts to fit with out some fiddling OR you return it as Tony says-'NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE'

Your two pictures show the stator in two different positions. Is the tight spot always at 10 o'clock or does it move around with the stator as you fit it in each of the three possible positions? If the tight spot doesn't move, it's the mounting plate.

A question for the tecchy guys, should the cable exit be as shown or out the back as mentioned in the dommy manual ? I know mine (out front ) is getting rubbed by the cover !!  And are they new studs 1/4 into the ally and 5/16 thro the stator / ,perhaps you have re tapped the housing too?