Intermittent Draggin' Clutch

I think a previous conclusion of similar circumstances was its normal!

If you adjust the clutch pushrod too tight so that it is in constant contact with the ball bearing actuator, it will eventually wear a flat on the bearing and/or deform the end of the pushrod. If the ball bearing rotates a little it may seem normal for a while but if the rod is pressing on a deformed area you will have more play and it will be stiff to pull on the lever.

You should take off the gearbox outer cover and see if this indeed happened.

Check back face of clutch spider is not in contact with end of gearbox sleeve gear. If you need a puller then it probably is.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Thanks guys. I'll check those points. I should say that for the past couple of months the clutch has been fine. The only difference in use that I can pin-point is the maintained higher speed cruising for a longer period. George

George, check your adjustments. Look at the levers cable adjuster, cable ends releases lever. Make sure nothing has moved/ slipped/ pulled through. It may be a consequence of multiple use that has bedded down something in the release mechanism. Check the position of the actuating lever, Is it where you set it? is it optimal for best release?? do I have correct clearance on the push rod???

If it was slipping you would smell it or me aware of a higher temperature by your left foot.

...or you may well have taken some material off the plates and it just needs adjusting.

I would be hesitantto open primary, especially if its dry as you mentioned before. Far better to go in from gearbox side, pull the rod and ball out to see if there is evidence on them. If nothing is amiss in the operating mechanism.... then you go for the seal release

Some pattern clutch plates are a tight fit in the drum and as they get hot and expand they don't lift cleanly and wedge in the drum . A bit of "fetling" with a file fixes it. The clincher is wear marks in the drum walls.

Do you mean the nut that holds the clutch on to the gearbox mainshaft? If so, engage top gear and apply rear brake while tightening nut. A bit of Loctite wouldn't hurt either.

I did have another thought. I presume you have a Laydown gearbox? If so the clutch arm, the one that the cable fits into, is effectively clamped to the shaft that operates the clutch. I've pondered the possibility of it moving on the shaft and producing the outcome you experienced.

Riding at speed with clutch engaged shouldn't cause any problems. I regularly cruise at 55 to 60 two up on my '55 ES2 without drama.

Checked my parts lists and I don't see any mention of a ball either. Nevertheless a ball bearing is usually inserted between the rod and mushroom to serve as a thrust bearing.

Ian McD

Previously George Phillips wrote:

After fettling the tongues on the plates and adding loktight to the threads on the main axle I reassembled it, adjusted the clutch and it now seem OK. No drag but a bit tricky to find neutral so may need a bit of tweaking. The problem was the nut becoming slightly loose. I used Ian's method to hold the clutch body while I applied a rubber mallet to the end of the rod operating the box spanner. Hope this one holds! Thanks for all your input. George

George hows the clutch now? a little tip regarding the filing of the tangs slightly "round" the corners of the tang to stop them point loading the hub. I inserted a set last year ( from club spares) and whilst I am awaiting my cases to be welded I thought I'd give the clutch a once over. There were a series of small indents in the hub that would case the plates to stick eventually. Cleaned up with a stone but definitely an area to watch if your troubled by clutch. I also slipped an extra plain plate in to offset the tang pressure points to a new area....

Happy riding....