Fastback...a lucky escape

they do come up on ebay now and then,its not unusual to find a break at this point as people overtighten them,also i had to remove my fastback tank as it was melting with the crap petrol we get these days so look out for that one aswell!,,,,,,,,,regards nick

I've speculated on the consequences. The wheel is retained by being bolted in on the other side by the nut... the clamp stops the forks from moving sideways away from each other. That would be a big problem for a sidecar outfit but - maybe - not so very serious for a solo.

My bike came with stainless steel spindle. One day I realised that the clamp was not really clamping the shiny metal at all - I could move the fork leg sideways on the spindle with my hand - so I replaced the spindle in the belief that the s/s one was too small. In fact when I measured then they were indistinguishable in size. But anyway - the clamp had never been effective anyway.

Not that I'm suggesting riding with it broken..but probably don't lose sleep over the risk. Probably/possibly etc. etc.

Could be wrong but I think the pinch bolt sliders are readily available new. I bought one pair of sliders from Mick and Angela Hemmings last August, albeit for a Mk3. I know there is an obvious difference with the brake side but the pinch bolt side may be the same part number.

There is a tendency to over tighten the pinch bolt, It only needs to be tight enough to stop the bottom of the fork leg moving sideways. The drum brake sliders are round in section and the later disc brake sliders are oval. At my recent MOT, the tester noticed my headstock nut was loose, (good spot) but missed the pinch bolt. Makes me wonder what else I missed on my rebuild.

Pinch bolt side fork sliders are often broken because people overtighten the pinch bolt. I replace broken ones rather than try to weld them as they tend to crack easily near the weld.

Two versions are now available as Andover Norton Genuine Spare Part: Commando under part# 06-3318 (UNF/UNC threads, oval section) and 03-0031 Dommi/ES2 (CEI/WW threads, round section).

Certainly the lower stanchions were available a couple of years ago. I had this problem with my '71 Commando, and was quoted, then, £60 for a stanchion, or, approx £30 for repair by alloy welding. The welding job was completed in situ, and took less than a day. The finished repair was invisible.

Try Andover Norton

I bought one for my bike from them last year and it was half the pricequoted byother dealers.

Similar items on eBay were only fractionally cheaper but possibly worn out internally. Dont take a chance.......buy new!!!

Big coincidence. My Commando is a December 1971 LR. Is there a pattern arising here?

I really would squeeze the piggy bank and buy a new replacement. That's a heck of a tricky alloy weld and don't forget it's your neck on the line. You have been warned!

By the time the welding preparation, welding, crack testing and machining is completed I reckon the new slider may be the cheaper option. As Gordon says it's your neck plus the innocent party you crash into if/when the weld breaks. Let me know your planned route when out on the bike so I can avoid the area! I would definitely save up for a new slider.

I had mine welded when it broke. The job was done by a specialist alloy welder in a factory where they madecomponentsfor fighter aircraft. The welder was very confident that the weld would hold. AFAIK it has held for the last 10,000 miles. I dread to think of the true rate for the job. I suspect a new replacement from Andover Norton would be cheaper.

Alloy welding is no harder than brain surgery. You just have to find the right surgeon!

It's still scrap I reckon...

Hi, looks a dodgy casting to start with. Notice the granulation. I have seen Norvil selling a cracked leg on eBay for £200. Gets your money back towards a new one. I have just bought a complete set of Disc forks on eBay in the States for £160, with yokes. If you repair it, then weld reinforcing gussets to it, otherwise scrap it. Best regards, Paul.

One serious argument in favour of buying a new one is this. If we don't buy new spares, the suppliers will stop manufacturing them and produce something else - lawnmowers parts for instance - or go out of business. It's in our own interests to support the spares suppliers who help us keep our bikes on the road. Only if something badly damaged is otherwise unobtainable should we attempt a tricky repair.

Hi, once you've repaired / replaced your fork leg - a suggestion I saw years ago, and have used succesfully ever since, is to put a washer in the gap at the bottom of the fork leg where the pinch bolt goes through the leg and through the washer. This will allow the bolt to pinch onto the spindle but stops the pinch bolt over tightening because it can'tcompletely close the gap, hence stopping the alloy bracket breaking. Being known as a gorilla when tightening bolts this fix has stopped me from breaking any pinch bolt legoveralmost 40 years Nortoning.

Also apologies if I may be teaching grandma to suck eggs but as your original commentseems imply that you are new to Nortons I willremind youto pump your forks up and down a few times before you tighten the pinch bolt so that the forks are straight and parallel and go up and down uninheaded.

You can try this fix which changes the fork bottom to a bolt on cap.

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=486777#Post486777

I had a fork leg repaired like this and chucked itinto my naff parts binafter less than 30 miles of use. The two studs could not cope with the stresses generated by the front suspension and the end cap kept coming loose. I would be happy to give it away if I did not think it would end up killing someone.

Thepinch bolt side fork legis available from Andover Norton today. £148 plus the usual additional costs.