Exhaust pipe locking ring

George; Rotation is required,not shockswith a mallet. Get a proper tool on it ( make one)... you need to apply an evenforcetothe ring, prefereably in more thanonedirection.Andsmear somesilicone on the threads before you wind it in. Ifthethread is worn you may well befighting a losing battle and need to getit sorted. There aretricksbutI thinkyouwouldprefer apuckerjobdoing.

Best Regards

Jon

Hi George I had the same problem, iron head, and seem to have cured it by winding some thin copper wire round the pipe between the flared end of the pipe and the nut . I also have the pipe secured to one of the front engine bolts. John

Never had one come loose on the ES2. However, the Commando is another thing. To cure the Commando i used copperslip grease on the threads and used the factory lock rings. To stop them from rattling just put a twist in them like a wavy washer and when tight they press against the head and the lock ring. ALLWAYS use the C ring spanner.

I have found that because the pipes rarely enter the port perfectly in line it helps to release the silencer to frame fixings and move the pipe about as you tighten the rose ,it will also help to put a little coppaslip around the pipe as the rose can drag on it.

Previously George Phillips wrote:

Yes, I did release the pipe when I re-assembled it all Robert. I hadn't thought of applying a little copperslip on the pipe. Good idea. Many thanks.

George ifyou use siliconeit will lube on theway inwhen wet, and sealnicely whendry and itsinvisible. If you usecopaslip it will encourage itto loosen. Mine arewiredon... but then again everything iswiredon the"bone shaker"!!!

The coppaslip is to go on the pipe where it can be tight in the rose,not on the threads.

Yep. Tried that David. I think my error is using a mallet and wooded "chisel" rater than the right tool. Anyway, right tool now ordered so we shall see.............G

Dear George,

Bit of finger trouble with my previous post. This is easy to fix: drill a 1/16" in one of the exhaust locking ring fins at about the ten to ten position then drill another 1/16 hole in the third fin up just a bit downwind of the exhaust port. Thread some galvanised garden type wire through the hole in the fin and twist it as you move in a clockwise direction around the locking ring finally threading one bit of the wire you have just twisted through the hole in the fin and then just twist it again for about three turns before snipping it off.

Photo attached: it is foolproof and dead easy to re-make if you have to take the head off for some other reason. Mine has lasted some ten years now being re-made only twice.

Regards,

Peter Bolton (see my ES2 in January's calendar photo)