Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

ES2 exhaust valve

Forums

My '52 ES2 recently had a full engine rebuild, it runs very well but there is one issue, when pushed hard i.e over 60mph particularly if going uphill, the exhaust valve pops open and the engine cuts out. To get it going again the valve adjuster has to be repositioned which usually involves removing the tank by the side of the road and a bit of trial and error to get the valve in the right position for compression.

Prior to the rebuild, I had to depress the exhaust lifter lever to have a hope of kicking it over but since the rebuild it is actually quite difficult to get compression and the kick starter depresses very easily.

I have adjusted the lifter arm and adjustment screw to the maximum but it hasn't helped much.

Has anyone else experienced this? Your help would be appreciated.

Fraser

Permalink

Perhaps the valve is seizing in the guide due to the extra heat riding up hill and alsothe valve lifter cam is wrongly set up. Do you still have the 'secÃ?teur ' type return spring fitted against lifter arm pushing it forward? Fiddling with the lifter gives the valve time to cool and re-set it's self.

Permalink

Sounds very much like modern tollerances have been used on your old chuffer!.Its common to hear of power fading on hills, loss of compression etc when this has been done.It may sort itself out with a bit of wear or you will have to get the guide reamed out .If fitted Bronze guides should be soaked in oil for a few days before use,and need more oil than cast iron.

Permalink

The lifter spring is fitted and working and the lifter arm cannot be adjusted anymore than it is. As I say it only happens at high revs when the lifter mechanism is blown out of position and has to be reset.

Permalink

Previously william_pryde wrote:

The lifter spring is fitted and working and the lifter arm cannot be adjusted anymore than it is. As I say it only happens at high revs when the lifter mechanism is blown out of position and has to be reset.

If the valve seats were replaced during the re-build, you may want to check thay are not moving in the head. any movement here will = a loss of compression.

cheers Steve

Permalink

When you say "the lifter mechanism is blown out of position " are you sayingthe valve lifter shaftis partially moving out to the left of the rocker box? If you are, this would account for the exhaust valve being held open a tad, as the internal clearance cutaway in the shaft wouldn't line up anymore with the top of the rocker. If this is the case, there is supposed to be a small screw on top of the box, the end ofwhich locates in the groove on the lifter shaft holding it in position to stop it from being "blown out".

Permalink

Right, after another afternoon spent by the side of the road I have worked out what is happening. The exhaust valve is sticking when the bike is pushed hard, I'm not sure if this is temperature related or not, the bike is fine to 55mph but if I go faster or hit a head wind or go uphill above that sort of pace the exhaust valve appears to stick in the up position, decompressing the cylinder ending my ride. It then seems to stick in this position until at some point it decides to reseat itself. I was fiddling with the lifter arm but this time I couldn't get compression no matter how I adjusted it so it was time for the trailer. Whilst awaiting my trailer pick up I heard the valve click down and got it going again, after I had removed the tank and lifter arm of course.

Any ideas folks, does the valve need lubricated, is it not fitting or worn somehow or could this be related to temperature?

Permalink

OK! now we know, sounds as ifthere is a carbon/burnt oilbuild up in the guide reducing the running clearance to zero. The valve heats and expands enough for itto jamb. You will have to remove the head and clean out the guide or replace it if worn, your choice. You will find that the carbon is probably compactedrock hard and verypolished and hard to see.

Permalink

this sounds like lack of oil is getting to the rockers the oil to the rockers is controled by a smaller diamenter pipe on the tank side of the rocker pipe has this been altered on the rebuild .hope this helps DICK RICHARDSON.

Permalink

I just re-read your initial post William, and realise youprobably have new valves andguides?, if this is the case, the exhaust guideneeds to be opened up a thou or two to give it a little more running clearance.

Permalink

Thanks for the info, the thought about the oil supply is interesting, I am awaiting a response from the chap who rebuilt the engine to establish what was replaced. I decided not to open the head until I have this information but have changed the oil with a mix of Castorol R and valve lifter lubricant which seems to have reduced engine noise and the valve hasn't failed yet...

Permalink

Previously william_pryde wrote:

Thanks for the info, the thought about the oil supply is interesting, I am awaiting a response from the chap who rebuilt the engine to establish what was replaced. I decided not to open the head until I have this information but have changed the oil with a mix of Castorol R and valve lifter lubricant which seems to have reduced engine noise and the valve hasn't failed yet...

Permalink

HI WILLIAM I could have explained the oil supply to the rocker box better the more Iread your problem the more Iam convinced it is lack of oil to the rockers .the oil return to the tank hits aconstriction Ihave been involved with es2 for 55 years a smaller size pipe witch makes the oil rise to the rockers if you put your finger over the return pipe in the oil tank you will forse oil up to the rockers a possible way of getting you home start with somthing simple examine the retun pipe to see the diamenter of the pipe if it ok move on to the head. Ihave been involved with es2 for 55 years I am on with will be my last re build YOURS DICK RICHARDSON.

Permalink

It sounds exactly like the symptoms of friend of mine had on his ES2.

His problem was caused by the exhaust valve seat dropping out of the head. He had had lead free valve seats put in, but the installer had made them slightly to small, so that when pulling up a hill or fast cruising the head would expand enough to let it drop down onto the valve

Permalink

blimey 60mph! I have a 35 frame & forks with 52 eng & gearbox with afterburners lit only see 55 max, suspect I am under geared, do you have any idea what sprockets you have on? I do see to get through the gears quick for an old bike, regards Paul

Permalink

Without wanting to sound irresponsible and uncaring for my ES2 it manages 70mph without much problem, I know some with later models that say around 80mph is achievable??? Perhaps you have side car gearing or perhaps the carb needle/throttle needs adjusted?I have no desire to run her any faster and 55-60 mph is good so as not to create an obstacle for other road users, it's just rather frustrating that prior to the engine rebuild this was not an issue. I note that she managed 96,000 miles on what appears to be the original cylinder but I have no way of proving this. Still waiting to hear back from the engine rebuild chap..., I feel yet another email coming on.

Thanks for the oil return info Dick, it looks like it may have had the oil return pipes renewed? perhaps with a wider diameter...again I cannot confirm this until the chap gets back to me. Peter thanks for the info about your friend's similar issue, I'll hopefully know more soon.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans