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Electrical System? System!

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Starting over:

On my Norton- Imp I have the luxury of starting an Electrical system from scratch! Obviously I will be going for a 12volt negative earth setup.

I have some equipment to use if necessary, a Jawa 350 wiring loom, Italian horns, a Intermotor Sports ignition coil, various Lucas Distributors 25D Imp & Morris Minor, an Electronic 123 Distributor, I wondered whether anyone had done a similar exercise?

I have a rudimentary wiring diagram & have flitted about looking at the more modern multiple Fuse Box system where you can wire up & fuse components individually. I would also like to wire in a Power socket option.

Any ideas tips would be gratefully received.

Cheers

John H

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If weâre doing what you are doing, Iâd be having a chat with Al Osborne, he can advise and supply everything for you to build your own loom, which would be the neatest way . Imho of course!

Dan

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Exactly, wise words above. Do not even think of using a loom off of another machine!! Most of the bits will be wrong and in the wrong place, by the time you've worked it out you could have wired three bikes! RED, BLUE-crimps forget them also. The Dizzy and advance curve are dictated by the engine. The Electronic 123 would be the best bet from those you mention as that has a totally self set advance curve via DIP switches.

The first thing you do is fit ALL the electrical devices. Nothing worse than finding half way through a rewire part is missing-'I'l leave the wires dangling, fit the 'switch later' then you find the switch is better else where, the wires are too short......A lot of my parts come from VWP anyway, but I will know what you want, VWP won't. I will be very happy to advise but suggest you go to my web site first and look at the Wiring Kit.

A O

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Diagram above is not too far from being ok. The main battery fuse protects most of the bikes wiring, switches etc but it does NOT protect from a fault in the reg/rect so the later wants feeding from after the fuse.

The ignition system if still for a twin but incoporates an electronic ignition will have different coil wiring and the inclusion of the amplifier.

And now in my humble opinion the above item described as 'some hi tecmethod' is a piece of tosh!no

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Thanks Alan,

The Moto-gadget thing I just came across, when I was surfing the Web, if it is tosh it's an expensive piece of tosh!

The wiring diagram was on a "Blobber" site, so with the Rectifier/Regulator then the wiring should join about where the 30 amp notation is? Are the combined units now and should a spare 30 amp fuse be wired in, so that if you are on the road you can just switch wiring runs?

I have of course an instrument panel to wire in,

I would be only using one coil for the 4-cylinder Imp engine and would ideally need a double-power take off for a plug in, ancillary light or something, probably a Cigarette lighter type fitting unless there is something better, someone even suggested a USB fitting!

Are there any advantages in wiring a multiple fuse set up?

My next dilemma is the alternator, my friend got an after-market Harley one on his build I think @ 360 watts/50 amp unit, there are small lightweight car ones available too, but then i have to devise a chain or belt drive.

I was going to get a Wipac Quadoptic headlight unit, but someone told me the light cut off pattern is awful!

Cheers

John

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I always put an inline blade fuse in the earth connection to the battery as it's very easy to short the live terminal to earth with a carelessly wielded screwdriver etc. This makes a nasty smell and lets all the smoke out, and depending on layout causes mayhem in the loom.

For the power takeoff, use a Hella type socket as used on some BMWs rather than a cigarette lighter type as these are crude in the extreme.

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Previously ian_soady wrote:

I always put an inline blade fuse in the earth connection to the battery as it's very easy to short the live terminal to earth with a carelessly wielded screwdriver etc. This makes a nasty smell and lets all the smoke out, and depending on layout causes mayhem in the loom.

For the power takeoff, use a Hella type socket as used on some BMWs rather than a cigarette lighter type as these are crude in the extreme.

Hmm, I have always wired bikes (professionally) so that any LIVE bits especially battery terminals cannot come to grief so for old British motorcycles the one main battery fuse is adequate. If you want to fit multi fuses it is up to you, perhaps it is a nice to have, but I can't see any need unless the wiring is poor, ie very tired or badly done, when odd fuse blowing can be a nuisance and could cause embarrassment with an ignition failure but leaves the lights on or vice versa, your choice.

Fine on power take off, the cigar lighter type are crude in the extreme.

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Thanks,

Okay, for power take- off, I will use a better fitting both K75 have this feature and t is useful for roadside repairs and camping e.t.c.

Cheers

John H

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Talked to Alan at AO Supplies!

When everything is fixed on the bike I will get back to him, re wiring plus bits and bobs!

Made a decision and went for an automobile unit, bought a super-light Nippon Denso 40 amp Alternator with built in regulator, £102 plus VAT!

Bought HT leads and suppression caps and an upgraded bronze geared oil pump all from Maynard Engines, kissed goodbye to another £440 including the above alternator.

Lucas stuff would have cost £235- £250 ish, including Regulator and then vat had to be added. I can't understand, the branding issue as I was told Lucas doesn't exist any more, the new stuff being made in China under Licence, even down to the green boxes!

Cheers

John H

 


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