dragging rear wheel

I had a similar problem with my rigid rear wheel. I bought the bike as a semi basket case withe the hubs built and painted.

I couldn't figure out why the brake plate somtImes rubbed. The previous owner had replaced the bearings washer (15 in the attached picture) with one with a too small OD. This caused it to occasionally drop down and partially cover the bearings inner race. This would cause the spacer and brake plate to tip. Sometimes by luck the washer would centre itself and the world was fine!

Colin

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I also had this problem on my 1949 plunger ES2.I later found the missing shim(15) on the garage floor.Bad practice on my part.

You can also get a brake rubbing problem if the wheel bearings are not correctly positioned. It might be worth checking that the Hub Bearing Lock Ring has been tightened sufficiently. Otherwise, all the innards shift across towards the speedo -drive. Mind you....having all the correct chunks on the drive side of the spindle does also help.

Any use?

http://www.iansoady.org.uk/files/norton_16h_big4_model-18_-es2.pdf

I had exactly the same symptoms on my 36 Model 18. There was an additional washer on the axle between the brake drum and frame that, because it wasn't in the parts book, I left off when I reassembled. The wheel dragged badly. On replacing the washer it improved a lot and I found that by tightening the axle nuts and the three nuts that connect the wheel to the brake drum a little at a time I could improve it to a, not perfect, but acceptable level. I had to redo a few times before I got it 'right'. I also read / heard / imagined somewhere that when finally tightening the rear axle bolts applying the brake will 'centre' the drum and avoid dragging. Tried it and didn't seem to make a difference but I pass it on anyway. Getting a drag free back wheel at the same time as correct chain tension and wheel alignment is a good skill to have... with me it's about abundant trial and error..

The right hand bearing should be held in place by the lock ring so if it is slightly loose in the wheel it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I would fit this bearing first, tighten the lock ring and then fit the left bearing. There should be no end float.

Are you sure that the binding is on the brake side? Did the spacer behind the speedometer drive get misplaced during the tyre change? Try removing the speedo drive and substituting with a washer about 1/8 inch thick. Does it still lock?

If it is locking on the brake side and clearance has always been an issue is the left side bearing the correct size?

The plunger model doesn't have a dummy axle, the spindle goes right through.

I would check that there's enough thread protruding on the RHS to fully tighten the nut down, but would also suspect a missing washer as Barry suggests. I can't see that the wheel building would affect it at all.

Previously charles_collins wrote:

I think the wheel hub can be located on the outer race of the bearings in slightly different spots even with correct bearings. I gave it two slight whacks on the speedo side and that freed up the dragging but made for a tiny bit too much play on the speedo side. I guess only one slight whack would have done it just right. Now I am fitting thin washers in to take up the very slight space needed on that side.

Yes a Birmingham screwdriver and an Anglo Saxon phrase book can work wonders.

It's worth remembering how the whole thing works. The outer race of the RHS bearing is locked into position via the lock ring A2/440 so cannot move laterally once assembled.

The spindle's increased diameter centre section, which locates on the inner races of both bearings, secures the LHS bearing into place. The recess for the LHS bearing outer is intentionally slightly "too deep" to ensure that there is no sideways force on the balls and that the outer race can find its own position. There is no positive lateral location for the LHS bearing's outer race.

It's often the case that when first assembled everything seems a bit tight but once the wheel is rotated a few times this will allow this slight sideways movement and should free up.

Provided the spindle is the right way round, there should be enough thread showing on the RHS so that when the RHS nut is tightened down it will clamp the distance piece A2/441, speedo drive, and distance piece D12/461 between the inner bearing and the inner face of the fork end. Of course there is also the chain adjuster stirrup B4/665 located on the fork end and washer B2/659 under the nut.

There's enough play and general flexibility that tightening down the RHS nut will be enough to remove any side play between the RHS fork end and the bearing. I would check again that the spindle is correct and that it has enough good thread for the nut to travel far enough to clamp everything down.

Hi Charles.

It's a VERY bad idea to ride with them loose. The speedo drive can be carried round with the wheel; this will then pull the speedo drive cable and can whip the bars onto full lock. A common problem with spring frame Velos.

The gentle whack will have moved the brake side bearing enough to free it up - as I said, on initial assembly they often feel very tight.

One thought has struck me - the nuts (at least on mine) are blind ie the outer end is closed. It's possible that the recess is clogged up with muck, not allowing the nut to travel along the spindle enough to clamp everything. It's also possible that it's the incorrect nut with insufficient thread.

You do have the washer between the nut and the stirrup don't you? It's quite thick.

No, the lockring clamps the outer race of the RHS bearing against the wheel hub so slackening then tightening won't affect anything.

I would suggest that the chain rubbing is nothing to do with the troubles you've had - chainguards are notorious for getting bent and catching. I once had to throw the one off my Commando away in deepest France as it kept rubbing on the chain (non standard rear dampers pushing it across too far as I discovered later).

But I would still be very cautious about running it without the speedo drive being firmly clamped.