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Dommie 99 correct manifold assembly sequence

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Has a single 376 Monbloc

current setup is cylinder head/gasket/manifold/gasket/carb

is there supposed to be a Tufnol heat insulator in there?

also can’t see to identify the gasket between manifold and head, not sure if it a one piece job or two carb gaskets. The studs at each port are arranged vertically, any guidance welcomed as usual 

Thanks

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It needs a "Tufnol" spacer between the carb and the manifold, with a gasket each side of it to keep it airtight.  The manifold bolts to the 4 studs on the head using standard gaskets.

I have a 1959 '99' - still in pieces!

In reply to by lionel_yexley

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Thanks Lionel

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The 1960 onwards single carb Dommies  had  2 seperate special tufnol insulators  between the manifold and the cylinder head and an O ring between  Monoblock and manifold. No paper gaskets. This was to stop fuel vapourising in the carb. Unfortunately it also stopped heat transfer in freezing conditions  which can be a bind , heat needed to stop fuel freezing around the main jet.An electric heating element in the air cleaner box  is on my  gadget  list !!. Never had a wideline so don't know what they had.

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1949-56 M7 had  insulators always on the head/manifold joint

Only on early flat no oring carbs did they have gaskets on carb/manifold joint.

All oring carbs went on the bare manifold, no gasket no insulator.

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thanks for all input, should have stated it is (allegedly) a 62 Slimline 99. Bike currently has no Tufnol insulators anywhere. The 4 manifold studs would be too short if the tufnol went in, but I can find no gaskets with 1.5" hole centres at any suppliers, only tufnols with these centres. The studs listed by RGM are 1.75" long with 1/4bsw  part 0.5" long. With the manifold 1.05" and the tufnol at 0.14" thick that gives a combined length of 1.69", leaving only 0.06" for the nuts and washers, clearly not enough. This makes me think the tufnol goes between carb and manifold( with a gasket each side), the current carb studs could accommodate this, it has no o ring groove on flange face. Still leaves me the problem of sourcing the manifold to head gaskets but I could easily make some. Who knows what happens to these bikes over the years!

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I think the tufnol spacers are on the RGM cat item t2241    with 11/2" centers studs. Sounds like you may have the wrong length studs . Don't know what the threads are but normally whit into head and cycle for the long slim nuts  ,unless they are in the wrong wayround!. RGM long studs ref 18380  ,but they don't appear to list the correct  long cycle nuts to go with them , they show t2220  which appears wrong..

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The 1.5 spacing is for pre 60 head R12/136

1.625 is for the 88SS/136 head normally 61&62

All of the manifolds below use isolators at the head

manifolds

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I think Peters  troubles are the long studs and long nuts that hold the manifold to the head?. Not long enough to allow the fitting of the 3mm tufnol spacers?. I can't spot the  reduced hex nuts ,but Norville may have them ,but their catalogue is not illustrated . One day I will learn how to post foto's !.

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My 1959 Dommie Parts List (with 1960 Supplementary Parts List) shows part number T2241 (2 required). These are listed as ‘distance piece for manifold’. When I Googled the part number, the photo that comes up shows a phenolic spacer. I bought two from RGM - they are about 3.5mm thick.

Regards

Tony 

Hello Robert thanks for comment, yes i was looking at those studs but they wont be long enough if i fit the tufnol washers (please check my maths!).  manifold is 1.05”+0.138 (tufnol)+nut& washer 0.312” =1.5” which only leave 1/4” going into the head, it’s a puzzle 

i can buy commercial UNC/UNF studs, UNC is 20tpi same as whit so should go in head ok, will just have to get come UNF nuts

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BRRRRRRR !!  Studs appear to be only 3/16 or 1/4"" dia  so its likely that they only go in  about 5/16"   , with small sleeve nuts holding it all together.   After all this palaver you  now owe it to us to get this right!!    My garage is so cold and damp  the condensation drips on you,  Working on a cure but not easy , First I have to dig a french drain .(start at the bottom).

Yes the cold really gets you. My lovely wife bought me a Keis heated vest for Christmas that plugs into the bike but she also got me the rechargeable battery- been wearing it in the workshop- highly recommended. Ok will order the 2 x tufnol and 4 studs from RGM and will let you know how it goes thanks for your help

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Robert:  On this cold day and also considering that it is the morning after the New Years celebrations, you definitely will be in need of some Scottish anti-freeze that comes in a brown one liter bottle.

Have a great New Year!!!

Mike

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manifold 1.06-1.12" tall

stud length  range 2.07-2.12"- 2 more threads length would be nicer

head end 10 threads

outer end 11 threads

insulator 3 mm

nut .218" tall reduced hex (.340") 1/4 CEI

I believe a tissue paper thin plain washer goes under the nut.

 

I fear the studs i have ordered maybe too short. Strangely the nuts recommended by RGM are listed as thick walled, suspect they will have a hex for a 5/16” nut. I’m not a purist, just need something that works cheers 

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5/16hex - .3125"  seems wrong?

I show 3/16 BS wrench size(.3375")  for the nut. Also some nuts are a bit taller.

 

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Found an interesting place with a huge range of studs and nuts that might be what i need

Motalia

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Attached is a photo of an original Payen gasket kit for all twins up to 1958 for Models 7. 77, 88 and 99 (1956) I opened today for use on my Model 7.

It clearly shows the two heat resisting washers which are fitted between the head and the aluminium manifold and the paper gasket which is fitted between the manifold and the carb 

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Sometime in the late 1950's  the Amal 376 came with an O ring reccess in the flange.  Better able to cope with the bow that often developed .

 


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