Cylinder retaining studs

If there is a specific spec out there I've never seen it. I just make sure they are reasonably snug. I put thread sealant on any studs that pass close to any oil passages in case there is any porosity in the crankcase that would allow oil to get to the stud hole and crawl up the threads. Personally I wouldn't worry about torquing to a specific spec on that end of the stud. You might find a chart that gives torque values for different fasteners, but I wouldn't go by them in this situation.

Yes. Just screw them in firmly with a thread sealant; a friend of mine thought the studs on his MK2 Royal Enfield Interceptor engine (full restoration) should be screwed in to the same torque as the nuts; he cracked the crankcase rendering them irreparable. So definitely don't do that.

George

I think that torque is greatly overrated, and I am fairly confident that no such thing was ever used in Norton production.

On my 30M I need to remove cylinder studs in order to remove the cylinder. When I made the studs I cut screwdriver slots on top of them. So when the cylinder is put back I just screw them in with a screwdriver and with a little oil on the threads. Not much torque and no problems.

Compare this with the fact that Spitfire propeller nut was done up without a torque spanner !

Regards

Arne

The studs only have to be screwed in as far they will comfortably go. The bolt tension required to hold the head joint together does not arrive until the nuts are added on top. There isn't any reason to Loctite except for convenience as you seem to have discovered - and to help prevent wearing out the threads within the casting by over-use, especially if it is alloy. Unless the studs are stainless... where something should be used to prevent galling as I understand it.

Previously adam_davis wrote:

Yes. Just screw them in firmly with a thread sealant; a friend of mine thought the studs on his MK2 Royal Enfield Interceptor engine (full restoration) should be screwed in to the same torque as the nuts; he cracked the crankcase rendering them irreparable. So definitely don't do that.

Hello Adam (or should I say Alan now? Ha-de-ha). Them Inter studs have no shoulder & so bottom out in the crankcase holes & are also fluted to relieve any hydraulic lock. Not the same as a proper shouldered stud which should lock when the thread endmeets the crankcase. Tweak 'em up with threadlock is the norm as you say. Bloody Enfields...

Hope to see you at Cadsden this year on my N15CS.