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Copper fuel lines

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OK finally got the copper fuel lines on my 16H finished. It looks OK, not concours, but then the rest of the bike isn't concourse either.

If anybody else is going to try this, then a few problems I encountered may help you avoid similar issues.

First off, you will need to keep the pipe tensioned as you bend it. Forget cheap microbore or brake line pipe benders, because they can't bend the tight radius curves that you will need. I found the best way was to bend around an old roadholderstanchionwhilst pulling either end of the pipe apart at the same time. You need quite a bit of extra length to achieve this, especially on small pieces, then trim to length using a pipe cutter. Order more pipe than you need, I mean double the amount.

Plumbers solder is not good for this job, it's too soft and wont handle the vibration, however, the correct braze solder (available for B&Q if you can't source elsewhere) mets arounds 700 degrees C. You won't get your pipes that hot with butane or propane, I had to use oxy-acetylene, and you have to becarefulthat your don't get it so hot that it melt the pipe and fixings too! Be patient and apply a little heat ,then the brazing rod, see if it melt, if not a little more heat and so on.

Make sure you clean all the joint thoroughly, or the flux and braze won't fill the joint.

Accept that there will be some movement as you braze if together, and be prepared to do a little bending to fit on final fitting.

They do look good when done though, and it's worth the effort if you have the time and equipment.

Paul

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Previously paul_gooch wrote:

OK finally got the copper fuel lines on my 16H finished. It looks OK, not concours, but then the rest of the bike isn't concourse either.

If anybody else is going to try this, then a few problems I encountered may help you avoid similar issues.

First off, you will need to keep the pipe tensioned as you bend it. Forget cheap microbore or brake line pipe benders, because they can't bend the tight radius curves that you will need. I found the best way was to bend around an old roadholderstanchionwhilst pulling either end of the pipe apart at the same time. You need quite a bit of extra length to achieve this, especially on small pieces, then trim to length using a pipe cutter. Order more pipe than you need, I mean double the amount.

Plumbers solder is not good for this job, it's too soft and wont handle the vibration, however, the correct braze solder (available for B&Q if you can't source elsewhere) mets arounds 700 degrees C. You won't get your pipes that hot with butane or propane, I had to use oxy-acetylene, and you have to becarefulthat your don't get it so hot that it melt the pipe and fixings too! Be patient and apply a little heat ,then the brazing rod, see if it melt, if not a little more heat and so on.

Make sure you clean all the joint thoroughly, or the flux and braze won't fill the joint.

Accept that there will be some movement as you braze if together, and be prepared to do a little bending to fit on final fitting.

They do look good when done though, and it's worth the effort if you have the time and equipment.

Paul

Hey,

How about somepix?

...And I need the Hubble space telescope to see what I'm typing. Something on the site has puked.

:)

Bryon

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I was thinking of doing my oil and fuel lines this winter in copper pipe and was advised to use short lengths of rubber oil/fuel where they terminate at the engine,carb,oil tank and fuel tank secured/tied with stainless tie wire that you would using for locking nuts,like the racers do,this avoids any chances of the lines cracking due to vibration,also looks pretty good if your work is neat.Downside is it can look a bit busy,now lines down in nickel plated copper or polished stainless,very tasty!

 


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