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Commando negative earth conversion

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Has anybody got any ideas about converting the Commando to negative earth? I have recently bought a HID headlight and the wiring for it is obviously designed for -ve earth. I'm running a three phase alternator, Boyer power box and Boyer Mk3 ignition.

I plan to connect the battery the other way round (ie use the red wire that is currently earth, and pretend it's black, and call the black wire red and supply the systems with it) and ensure that the power from the Power box is correct to the battery and the supply to the Boyer ignition box is correct. the only other glitch will be the ammeter working in reverse, (easily swapped over)

I realise it goes against the grain to connect the black to positive and red to negative but the red wire is screwed to the frame in all the right places and would make a good negative earth.

Any body see a snag with my theory? it also means that commonly available LED bulbs could be used.

Dave Evans

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I honestly would not bother, the hassle of convertion would far outwiegh any advantages you may gain.

As for fitting equipment designed for neg earth this should be fairly easy to addapt if you ensure both the feed and return wires of any equipmentare insulated, then you should be able to connect pos to pos and neg to neg with no problems. This should also apply to LED bulbs too, just ensure the bulb holder is not directly earthed as on the pilot light / instrument lights, then just simply ensure the centre feed positive is connected to the earth and the return negative to the negative feed wire.

On the subject of LED bulbs, if you go onto Paul Goffs Website you will find he sells Instrument panel bulbs designed for pos earth as well as neg earth so the standard bulb holders can be used without the need to insulate them.

Hope this has been of help.

Paul Goring.

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Totally agree with the above message. It is possible to convert the system to negative earth but.................If you make a mistake it could prove to be a very expensive one. Some Power Boxes have a reputation for dying, all too easily, if the system wiring is not sorted 100%. I recommend that you talk to both Al Osborn at AO Services and Paul Goff. Both have knowledge, experience and the right bits on sale to save you from DIY electrical suicide.

Phil Hannam

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I have converted to negative earth but I was rewiring the bike from scratch and not using the usual wiring loom. My advice would be to stick with positive earth unless you are doing the total rewire; going ahead with reversed colour codes feels like a recipe for disaster sooner or later and could lead to a scenario as depicted on page 17 of Rh269. If you do rewire, I would recommend installing real earthcable rather than the horrid practice of using the chassis (just my opinion).

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Hi, I successfully converted my Mk111 to negative earth a few years ago. It was straightforward and I have had absolutely no problems whatsoever with the bike since. If you take your time, don`t rush it and do one part at a time all will be well - no guarantees of course, but it worked for me!

A good idea would be to take photos of the individual wiring connections and/or do drawings of same as you go, then you can refer back to these if you get stuck en route. Also refer to the original wiring in the workshop manual. (Factory or Haynes)

Those nice people at Boyer Bransden may well send you a wiring diagram showing positive AND negative connections for the Boyer Mk111 unit, ignition coils (standard) and the Boyer Powerbox too. I know this `cos they sent`em to me when I asked them!

Any way, if you would like details I`m happy to post them on the forum, it`s a bit lengthy in content so I`ll dig out the info if you want, let me know on the forum.

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Thanks Ken, It's on the back burner for the time being while i rebuild My Interpol 2 engine. These headlights get good reviews on the Rotary Owners website and only consume 35 watts. My Power box came with a schematic diagram of both +ve and -ve earth so I was going to work off that. One of the problems is hiding all the working parts on a bike that doesn't have a fairing to hide it all in.

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Chris Grimmett previously wrote:

I have converted to negative earth but I was rewiring the bike from scratch and not using the usual wiring loom. My advice would be to stick with positive earth unless you are doing the total rewire; going ahead with reversed colour codes feels like a recipe for disaster sooner or later and could lead to a scenario as depicted on page 17 of Rh269. If you do rewire, I would recommend installing real earthcable rather than the horrid practice of using the chassis (just my opinion).

There is an earth wire in the loom-yes it is the wrong colour, but no need to add a 'real earth' Yes might be best practice to rewire to get it right, but it should work with some care.

Al Osborn

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Dave Evans previously wrote:

Has anybody got any ideas about converting the Commando to negative earth? I have recently bought a HID headlight and the wiring for it is obviously designed for -ve earth. I'm running a three phase alternator, Boyer power box and Boyer Mk3 ignition.

I plan to connect the battery the other way round (ie use the red wire that is currently earth, and pretend it's black, and call the black wire red and supply the systems with it) and ensure that the power from the Power box is correct to the battery and the supply to the Boyer ignition box is correct. the only other glitch will be the ammeter working in reverse, (easily swapped over)

I realise it goes against the grain to connect the black to positive and red to negative but the red wire is screwed to the frame in all the right places and would make a good negative earth.

Any body see a snag with my theory? it also means that commonly available LED bulbs could be used.

Dave Evans

Dave,

What you say above with care should work, but you would be advised to get some coloured heat shrink to re colour the cable to the battery at least. A total rewire is probably the best way forward. Don't forget to reverse the ignition and also note that the ignition coils get reversed. LEDs are polarity conscious but some as supplied are able to work either way with the use of diodes inside them. Now why do you need a HID headlamp? Before you go down the route of needing more illumination check that the original system is working at full power. Have you looked at the volts drop on the standard system?-if it is excessive then fit a couple relays, can give you a diagram.

Alternator of course can't see polarity, the Power box is happy either way. The ignition can be reversed, don't forget the coils. The capacitor will need reversing, if you have the MKIII warning light assiumulator this will need reconnecting. Why have you an ammeter? Extra wires to loose volts to it and back to the battery, the power box always finds it hard to keep the battery voltage up without long wires to ammeters. I would recommend the BSM LED voltmeter, (I sell) gets rid of both the last items and would give the power box a better chance which in turn gives you a better battery charge voltage. All your choice of course. Need more info give us a call 01953 884681

Al Osborn

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I have stuck with the positive earth but I have fitted two minature relays in the headlight and an earth lead direct to the battery. The Wipac quadoptic headlight is awesome now. I was loosing 1/2volt at the headlight previously and this is understandable when one thinks that the current for the headlight normally goes through the fuse, ignition switch, lighting switch, dip switch and crawls back through the frame. Now that painful route only serves to activate the relays. The ammeter is out now as well, as that had a wire going from battery to headlight, back to the ignition switch and back up to the headlight again. I recon 30% of my original wiring loom is redundant.

The HID headlight is now on my Interpol Rotary and is very good apart from a small dark area in the middle of the beam. ( the bulb is moved in and out electromagnetically to give dip and main from one light source)

 


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