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Commando forks on Garden Gate?!

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Here is Ken McIntosh's take on improving the handling of our plunger frames:

I have found that the handling on my 1948 Manx, while not in the featherbed class, is certainly nowhere near the generally held perception of wobble and wallow'.The criticism often levelled at the plunger rear suspension is mainly caused by the lack of damping in the front forksThe 1950-type forks, used on the DOHC garden gate models, are the first to have the later piston type dampers. The earlier type were really just hydraulic stops at the extremes of the travel. There was no attempt made to damp the middle fork movement.To convert to the later type is possible, without changing the original appearance, but requires the replacement of a number of parts. The easiest way is to use later Commando stanchions and dampers. The Commando internal springs are not required, as the original gardengate external springs will work without problems. The Commando stanchions are slightly shorter than standard the gardengate type but this causes no problems, as the ride height is determined by the springs.The dampers will fit into the early type sliders without modification, but new top fork nuts will be required, because the damper rod screws into them. The standard Commando top nuts are too long, because they originally mount the speedo/tacho housings.The Commando steel damper rods are often threaded 3/8" UNF, so alloy rods are a good option, threaded 3/8"x 26tpi, to suit the manx top nuts. The 1946-1949 forks had chrome steel top nuts; 1950 and later were alloy. Both types are available.

Anyone out there tried this? I procured the necessary parts, all used, but am a long way off from a running bike, my '48 Inter.

Thanks,

Mike

Alameda, Calif.

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Hi Mike

A guy who lives fairly local to me and does a lot of work with Manx's fitted some modern day hydraulic damping in my 1951 ES2 forks for me. I don't think they where Commando ones but couldn't honestly tell you for sure.

I think the bike handles very well and wouldn't use the words wobble and wallow to describe it at all! However, I never rode the bike before they where fitted as I was restoring it so had the job done before putting it on the road, in fact, I have never riden a Norton with unmodified roadholder forks so dont really have anything to compare it too.

Several people I know with plunger framed Nortons had the same mod done though and said it transformed the handling, I'll see if I've got an invoice or anything in the file that will shed some more light on what was fitted.

Andy

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If you change to alloy rods then they tend to gall inside the alloy damper top caps (same as Amal carbs with slide and body made from same metal), I drill the top caps out and fit a thinwall PTFE bush. This stops the galling and the tighter fit increases the damping.

 


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