Clutch problems

Putting more shims behind the clutch centre will mis-align your primary chain. You've replaced the deep groove bearing in the centre of the clutch? confirm you have fitted the correct bearing there. Then that is the only thing controlling any movement in the basket. You will always see quite a lot of movement there because of the diameter of the basket. Don't worry about it.

Previously steve_elston wrote:

Hi all

stripped and re-built the clutch twice in as many weeks,pulled in clutch lever to free plates, heavy as f--k on the kick start, really dragging and heavy

first gear was a bastard to get on a first/cold start , had to heel it in hard,gears grounching and chattering only to have it slip out after,maybe a yard or two,.replaced the four steel clutch plates and clutch bearing ,no bloody difference.

done some research and added an extra steel clutch plate ,on the inside of the clutch basket so it's drum, steel, bronze,steel etc.got near to the 5mm measurement

transformed the clutch, now two finger operation, nice and light.

my question is how much end float /movement on the clutch basket is the norm. measured 27 thou when clutch lever pulled in before plates started to move, also clocked 30 thou movement laterally, clock zero'd at 9 o'clock rocking it 3 to 9 and back,maybe another shim is required behind the clutch basket assembly, any thoughts

steve

Hello Steve.

Interesting to hear that.

I have had some interesting issues with the primary side and am rebuliding it for the fourth time in succession...

One of the issues I have is a slipping/dragging clutch.

Just for my peace of mind will you tell me how many plain plates and how many friction plates you have in yours now? Thanks.

BTW, I have found most of the faults now, so after a a new stator, sprag cltch, end gear hydraulic priamry chain adjuster, primary chain, refurbished cases, helicoils, the last thing I have ro do is get the b****y clutch to work and I may even be able to ride it!!!

Cheers

Jack

Hi Jack,

Take a look at the Old Britts website for some details on both 750 850 and Mk3 clutches

www.oldbritts.com

Previously steve_elston wrote:

Hi all

stripped and re-built the clutch twice in as many weeks,pulled in clutch lever to free plates, heavy as f--k on the kick start, really dragging and heavy

first gear was a bastard to get on a first/cold start , had to heel it in hard,gears grounching and chattering only to have it slip out after,maybe a yard or two,.replaced the four steel clutch plates and clutch bearing ,no bloody difference.

done some research and added an extra steel clutch plate ,on the inside of the clutch basket so it's drum, steel, bronze,steel etc.got near to the 5mm measurement

transformed the clutch, now two finger operation, nice and light.

my question is how much end float /movement on the clutch basket is the norm. measured 27 thou when clutch lever pulled in before plates started to move, also clocked 30 thou movement laterally, clock zero'd at 9 o'clock rocking it 3 to 9 and back,maybe another shim is required behind the clutch basket assembly, any thoughts

steve

Hello Steve.

Interesting to hear that.

I have had some interesting issues with the primary side and am rebuliding it for the fourth time in succession...

One of the issues I have is a slipping/dragging clutch.

Just for my peace of mind will you tell me how many plain plates and how many friction plates you have in yours now? Thanks.

BTW, I have found most of the faults now, so after a a new stator, sprag cltch, end gear hydraulic priamry chain adjuster, primary chain, refurbished cases, helicoils, the last thing I have ro do is get the b****y clutch to work and I may even be able to ride it!!!

Cheers

Jack

Had similar issues with my bike many years agoI found two problems,. Even after fitting new Surflex (4) checking the plains (4) and adjusting to spec. it refused to release cleanly. By process of fortune and close examination of everything I found a Dominator arm had been fitted limiting stroke and secondly the spring fingers were lifting unevenly. In addition if you adjust freeplay by the book you do lose a lot of travel IMO.

It may not be related but at least check the spring for uneven finger heights. They often look ok and dont have to far out to be a problem. You need to remove the release block to examine properly.