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Brake rod wing nut

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The size (prewar) is bigger than 1/4 and smaller than 5/16. O.D.of thread is close to 7mm. Did they use a metric thread? Its fine pitch... and wing nut is not available. Mine has a serviceable hex nut. But does anybody know of a supply of the real thing...and what is it? Russell don't have them.
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Have you tried Ken McIntosh? They are listed on his website (brake rod wing-nut garden gate & pre war) although with no price against, but probably worth a try if you haven't already?

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Iain - thanks for the tip. Seems a long way to go! I've mailed and I'll see what he says.Maybe I'll try a modern M5 and a boring bar on a small lathe - just for the challenge! But it won't look right.
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The size is given in the WD parts book as 9/32" x 26tpi...I only realised this when I ran a 1/4" die down to clean the thread up...

I have a Ken McIntosh brake rod now. His dull chrome work is brilliant and postage costs from NZ were a pleasant surprise.

I know of no UK source for the 'Mickey Mouse Ears' wing nut - no other manufacturer used them. Russell's stock is mostly ex-WD and they changed over to a lock nut and trunion at the rear with a circular adjuster at the front when panniers were first fitted in 1941. The army must've thrown tens of thousands of the wing nuts in the scrap bin when converting the earlier bikescrying

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Thanks, Richard.Does that mean the lever was supposed to have a round barrel with a grooved wing nut - so it rests at each half turn? If so - do you know the diameter, please? My parts list isn't readable to that detail.9/32 x 26 is very close to M7 with 1mm pitch - i.e. 7.14 x 0.97mm as opposed to 7.00 x 1.00mm.But metric threads usually miss out 7mm so M7 wing nuts aren't in normal shops. A web search has turned up an Indesit washing machine wing nut! I've no idea what it's for - but I think I might experiment. It won't look correct but it might looka a bit better than a brass hex nut.By the way - the rod is bright chrome on my 16H. I'm certain it's original 1937. But someone pinched the nut...
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David, my nut is as per the picture in the 1946 thread. The nut has a rounded 'base' which detents in the circular rear of the operating arm and it cannot come undone once there is a certain amount of pressure from the return spring.

I had a box of WD BSA nuts but they had smaller ears and were 1/4". The Norton one is a devilish item to find.

They're yellow metal (presumably bronze ?) and usually seem to have been black-enamelled.

I'll undo it and measure and photograph tomorrow.

I can't remember what I specified with Ken McIntosh. Could it be that the racers used more dull chrome (fortunately for me, the early WD bikes did as well)

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I found this.Somebody has suggested carving one from brass using an angle grinder!'Tracy Tools' list a 9/32 x 26tpi cycle thread tap (if my usual source of taps doesn't have one).Attachments img_2074-copy-jpg
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I think that I'd want a thread insert there if using brass. The front brake is not particularly outstanding which means the rear pedal can get stood on quite hard at times.

I've been in the garage tonight and the camera went flat after one photo. I haven't forgotten it though.

Attachments wing-nut-3-jpg
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I think I have two or three 9/32 26 TPI wingnuts in a really huge box of Norton genuine parts / spares I bought last year for £1 at an auto jumble. I will have a look if they are still there if so you can have one with pleasure.

Failing that get a brass wingnut from a narrowboat chandlers Boat people love brass), drill to a tapping size for 9/32 26 TPI and make one.

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Carl... I'd love to have the correct one, please - now I've seen how theatrical it is, I realise how mean a simple hex nut looks, and why someone pinched it.Actually I've been a bit surprised by how good the brakes are. Maybe because I still have old asbestos shoes. But I take the point...bronze isn't the same as brass. And brass varies a lot.
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And I thought the CS1 was going to be the only Norton that required a 9/32 x 26 t.p.i. item ....... Why didn't they just use 1/4"?

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The thread and wing nut on my 52 ES2 are both very tired and ideally require replacing. Is there any technical reason why the 5/16 rod is threaded 9/32 at its end? It would be easier to thread 5/16 cyc. and make a suitable wing nut. Yes I know it wouldn't be original but you haven't seen my bike! John

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We can only really guess at the technical reason...I suspect that it is to reduce the chances of the thread being damaged by the slot in the brake arm if lowering the brake pedal to give access to the primary chaincase.

Nortons were quite well thought-out and this sort of clearance and taper is just the sort of thing that they liked....and I can imagine that the fastidious Edgar Franks quite enjoyed specifying 'specials' when it came to fasteners.

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Yes, I like your reasoning Richard, I think that is very probable. Think, for my purposes, will make a new one with a 5/16 cyc. thread. John

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Previously John Tickell wrote:

Yes, I like your reasoning Richard, I think that is very probable. Think, for my purposes, will make a new one with a 5/16 cyc. thread. John

Wingnuts are now available for purchase in the NOCShop!

Cheers,

B

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Now that's been threaded 1/4 BSF. Anyone see any problems with that? Without checking I doubt if the rod threaded 9/32 would clean up sufficiently to re thread 1/4. John

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Morning,

I was told these are supplied with a pilot hole only so the end user could tap as per requirements. Mine is coming this way. Perhaps the description is a typo?

Previously John Tickell wrote:

Now that's been threaded 1/4 BSF. Anyone see any problems with that? Without checking I doubt if the rod threaded 9/32 would clean up sufficiently to re thread 1/4. John

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Previously Bryon Harvey wrote:

Morning,

I was told these are supplied with a pilot hole only so the end user could tap as per requirements. Mine is coming this way. Perhaps the description is a typo?

Interesting. Will wait and see what you get. John

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Interesting! It looks OK doesn't it? But on second glance - I thought the end curve should be convex and not concave. Domed not dished. The dished nut would fit against a barrel shaped cross trunnion bar but the one's I've seem don't have an extra cross bar. The nut fits all by itself into the curve of the lever.Anyway it'll look better than my hex nut...If it really is 1/4 BSG, it should be possible to tap it out to 9/32 cycle as they are both 26tpi. The thread angles are a bit different (60 and 55 respectively?) So it looks worth buying the nut - and buy the tap from Tracy Tools. And leave the rod alone. But maybe add a barrel shaped cross bar.
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The nut available from the spares scheme is listed with a post-war part number and may be correct for some models but my understanding of the earlier machines reflects David's comments about form and threading. There is no trunnion mentioned in the Spare Parts Lists. A half-round one was fitted to WD models with a fixed nut when the adjuster was moved to the front to allow pannier fitment.

For comparison purposes, these images show a used (and worn) original nut and the currently available article.

Attachments 052%20-2.JPG a2_505_1-jpg
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Well after some thought I have compromised and this morning made a new 'top hat' style nut with a rounded end and taped 5/16 cyc. will pick up some 5/16 rod from our local steel stock holder Monday. John

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Wing nut update:I bought the NOC wing nut and today managed to find a 9/32 x 26 tap at Kempton (after a long hunt).So a 6mm drill to open the pilot hole to the correct size and 5 minutes later with the tap and it fits. I hacksawed the edges from the blunt end to effectively reverse the curvature.Then painted it black as Richard suggested. Now it looks unobtrusively the proper job. And it seems to be wide enough to bear properly on the lever without the trunnion used on later bikes. Nice to achieve a result without any tears!David Cooper

 


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