Basic stuff - new Big 4 owner

I wouldn't think that the bike will start with the decompressor actuated.

Normally you use the decompressor to relieve the compression while you bring the piston to the top on the firing stroke. Then you close the decompressor and give the starting lever a good kick.

You will master the knack shortly.

If it's been standing for some time I would suggest that you drain the sump and return the oil to the tank before you try starting it as, if you succeed in starting it with a lot of oil in the sump, much of it will blow out of the breather and the bike will mark its territory in no uncertain terms! Also, a wet sump situation will make it harder for you to kick the thing over at a decent speed.

I'm assuming, from what you've posted, a general unfamiliarity with old Brit iron, in which case, time-honoured starting procedure for most/all types is:-

Turn on petrol tap; tickle carburetter until either petrol seeps past the tickler or your finger feels wet; gently but firmly push kickstarter down until compression stops it from going any further; operate decompressor while moving kickstarter down slightly to ease past tdc; release decompressor and, with advance/retard on full retard and choke lever closed (parallel with handlebars) perform a determined one-legged jump on kickstart, either astride bike or alongside it while it's on centre stand. It may start.

I don't recommend starting a Big 4 / 16H on the stand, this can twist it and damage the threads in the pivot. Stand astride.

One other thing to note is whether you have tight or slack wire advance. If the Mag has been changed either could be true. Take the points cover off and note direction of points rotation. If the camplate rotates in the same direction when the advce lever/cable is pulled,the ignition will be fully advanced with the cable slack. If it moves in the opposite direction to the points when the lever/cable is pulled then you havetight wire advance. Important for the survival of all those teeny bones in your foot! Mags have an optimum point of maximum flux, either side of which the spark intensity is lower. Too far retarded may also cause you problems. I usually retard no more that halfway and give a 'confident' swing. Mine has the 633 long stroke engine which is more challenging still!

Have fun.

I'm just another new (3 days) 16H owner. Howards starting method is the same it's previous owner told me. Most times it takes me 3 kicks to start it cold, sometimes less. But I have not understood how to start it when it's warm. What is the normal warm start procedure? I'm aware of that the old ladies can be different and have to be treated individually. I'd really appreciate some hints before starting to investigate possible magneto or carburettor issues.

Mike

What do you mean by 'warm' ? If you stop the engine and immediately try to start (without touching choke or 'tickling') and have difficulty using the same technique then you probably have a problem...If you leave it for a half hour or so then ambient temperature and fuel type will have an effect.

Make sure though that you don't accidentally open the throttle wide as you kick. Side-valves don't seem to like a large throttle opening when starting. If using choke, this effect is disguised.

'I'm aware that the old ladies can be different and have to be treated individually.'

This, really, sums up the reality of the situation. Whereas modern machinery should and does start instantly, hot cold or warm, machines from the 'old clunker' end of things often exhibit a perversity that can either be regarded as 'character' or 'a total pain in the backside', depending on your frame of mind, need (or otherwise) to get somewhere quickly or whether or not there are interested onlookers.

The only way is to persevere with different techniques until you suss out the particular foibles of your own machine. If it's up to full running temperature, it should start with nothing more than a determined lunge on the kickstart (with ignition retarded slightly for safe preservation of the delicate bones in your foot!)

If, however, it's just 'warm' it may need partial closure of the air lever or even a couple of prods of the tickler button (not the full monty flooding of a cold start though).

An interesting technique that I was shown by top Velo restorer Martin Arscott (albeit on a Venom - one of the most cussed recalcitrant starters ever produced by the Brit bike industry) is to 'get it firing in the pipe'. His approach is to go through the usual preparations for starting, either from cold, warm or hot, but then hold on to the valve lifter while vigorously kicking it over until it literally starts firing in the exhaust pipe, at which stage he releases the lifter and continues to kick. It then starts (or it did for him - must admit, I never had much luck with the technique but then, it was a bloomin' Velo after all). Anyway, good luck with it.

Long swinging kicks are to be preferred. Should the bike be on the mainstand at this point or is it easier astride? Should I position my foot or legin anyway to mitigate the effects of possiblekick back?

I have to put the possibility of kick-back out of my mind entirely or I can't kick properly. It is a psychological thing. You may find that you don't suffer from this at all though.

Hello David, i am in the Tay Valley Branch and i run a Big4, if i can be of any help let me know, Cheers..

Hello Richard, you are right about starting it immediatly after a short stop. Now I have to figure out how to solve my problem starting it after a ten minute pause. Guess some trial and error will sort it out.

Mike