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88 Featherbed Wideline fork shrouds

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Dear

I got a clean and uncut Wideline frame. Its headstock was untouched except for tapper rollers. The fork yokes look usual with the handlebar bridges close to the center of the top yoke.

I found separately 2 uncut tin lampholders/shrouds, with the Roadholder badge located in the lower section( while Model 7 had them located under the top yoke). I found also the cylindrical shrouds which are screwed to the lower yoke. The tin shrounds were not cut as new rubber collar fit like gloves.

Fabrication of the upper and lower shrouds must have had a lot of variation but I managed to mate them.

I installed tapper rollers with the races well pushed in the head stok.

I assembled both yokes with the tapper rollers.

I installed a washer under the lower roller and a washer above the crownut/under the upper yoke above the large dust cover.

This increased the gap between the yokes. I removed these washers but the tin shrouds with the rubber collar at the top do not touch the top yoke.

On my Model 7 I have alloy lamp shrouds and the rubber collar is compressed.

Were is the trick? Is it ok to have an empty space between the rubber collar and the the top yoke?

Welcoming advice or pictures of what it should look like..

Thanks

RenÃ?

Permalink

I did the same with my 88. A pair of SKF taper roller bearings were the same diameter as the original worn out ball races, but a little wider. This meant that the steel headlamp brackets were loose. What I did was get a length of rubber edging strip and fit this round the top edge of the headlamp shroud. It made up the extra height and added a measure of rubber shock absroption.

If you are finding fork shrouds, make sure you get the right length. The long-Roadholder ones for Model 7 will be longer than for short-Roadholders on a featherbed. But they can be cut down....

Paul

Previously rene_milas wrote:

Dear

I got a clean and uncut Wideline frame. Its headstock was untouched except for tapper rollers. The fork yokes look usual with the handlebar bridges close to the center of the top yoke.

I found separately 2 uncut tin lampholders/shrouds, with the Roadholder badge located in the lower section( while Model 7 had them located under the top yoke). I found also the cylindrical shrouds which are screwed to the lower yoke. The tin shrounds were not cut as new rubber collar fit like gloves.

Fabrication of the upper and lower shrouds must have had a lot of variation but I managed to mate them.

I installed tapper rollers with the races well pushed in the head stok.

I assembled both yokes with the tapper rollers.

I installed a washer under the lower roller and a washer above the crownut/under the upper yoke above the large dust cover.

This increased the gap between the yokes. I removed these washers but the tin shrouds with the rubber collar at the top do not touch the top yoke.

On my Model 7 I have alloy lamp shrouds and the rubber collar is compressed.

Were is the trick? Is it ok to have an empty space between the rubber collar and the the top yoke?

Welcoming advice or pictures of what it should look like..

Thanks

RenÃ?

Permalink

Thank you for this reply. It made me check the length of the fork shrouds (tin lamp brackets) ... One was shorter by half and inch than the other .

I bought them nicely painted from a French guy who posted Dommie parts on "Leboncoin.fr", together with shrouds to be bolted to the lower yoke. Theses too had been shortened on the yoke side above the three screws plate, ... mistake obviously, unless you want to fit clip-ons and cafe racer lamp brackets.

Lesson for tin parts, more pictures and dimensions. Ask why do you sell?

RenÃ?

Previously paul_standeven wrote:

I did the same with my 88. A pair of SKF taper roller bearings were the same diameter as the original worn out ball races, but a little wider. This meant that the steel headlamp brackets were loose. What I did was get a length of rubber edging strip and fit this round the top edge of the headlamp shroud. It made up the extra height and added a measure of rubber shock absroption.

If you are finding fork shrouds, make sure you get the right length. The long-Roadholder ones for Model 7 will be longer than for short-Roadholders on a featherbed. But they can be cut down....

Paul

Previously rene_milas wrote:

Dear

I got a clean and uncut Wideline frame. Its headstock was untouched except for tapper rollers. The fork yokes look usual with the handlebar bridges close to the center of the top yoke.

I found separately 2 uncut tin lampholders/shrouds, with the Roadholder badge located in the lower section( while Model 7 had them located under the top yoke). I found also the cylindrical shrouds which are screwed to the lower yoke. The tin shrounds were not cut as new rubber collar fit like gloves.

Fabrication of the upper and lower shrouds must have had a lot of variation but I managed to mate them.

I installed tapper rollers with the races well pushed in the head stok.

I assembled both yokes with the tapper rollers.

I installed a washer under the lower roller and a washer above the crownut/under the upper yoke above the large dust cover.

This increased the gap between the yokes. I removed these washers but the tin shrouds with the rubber collar at the top do not touch the top yoke.

On my Model 7 I have alloy lamp shrouds and the rubber collar is compressed.

Were is the trick? Is it ok to have an empty space between the rubber collar and the the top yoke?

Welcoming advice or pictures of what it should look like..

Thanks

RenÃ?

 


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