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1963 Norton Slimline Oil Leaking from Breather

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Hi,

I just restore the engine with new slip, piston, shell and engine bearings. Once start the bike I encounter oil flowing out from the rear crankcase breather. It's not normal leaking but flowing like open a water tab.

The oil returns back to the oil tank and also flowing to the head. The issue is too much of oil still left in the crankcase which causesthe oil coming thru the engine breather.

I have already change the oil pump and also have tested with 6 start oil pump but the leaking is not stopping. When I clear off the oil in the crankcase and start for the first 5 min no leaking or white smoke. Once the oil starts to flow in normal then the leaking starts again.

Can anyone help to identify what is the issue here?

Thanks!

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Timed breather jammed open?, check by removing sump plug and blowing through breather while turning engine over.

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No issue with the breather I guess as the oil is going up to the oil tank. The issue is not all the oil is going up.

I have blow all the holes in the crankcase also still the same.

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Hello Sundarraju - you don' say what engine you have - 500,600,650,750 ? but have you checked the pressure relief valve in the timing cover ? The reason I ask which engine you have is because there are two different types depending on the type of timing cover fitted. One type is external at the bottom left-hand side of the cover. The other type is within the cover itself. If the engine has been stood for some time the plunger can seize up through oxidisation. If the breather disc is located properly in the camshaft there isn't much else to cause your problem. Good luck, Howard

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Hello There is if the camshaft breather disc spring is not fitted in the right place it should be in betweenthe disc and the cam shaft end when doing a rebuiltengine I alway fit this in first and have the left-hand side looking up Ward and then fit and crankshaftassembly and make sure the cam shaft is on the spring you can feel it when you drop the disc in first and then the spring and then the cam shaft and turn until you feel it mate up with the disc then with your artist brush smearwellseal on to crankcase mating sides and have the ball main bearing fitted to the crankshaft and warm the right-hand side case in the oven and fit over the crank and cam shaft and fit it down until the case has mated with its partnerscase on its two dowels then fit the two bottom screws but do not do them up just yet leavethem slack just give them a few turns to line the cases up and then see if all is free when turning the cam shaft and crank then fit the oil seal washer on the timing side and the small nut and bolt at the front of the cases then stand up right to fit the two nuts on the engine thought studs at the top end of the cases do protect you conrods do not have then banging the side ends of the crankcases this will not do them much good . from here you can then buildup your timing gear well before fitting any top end for this I made out of a nice pace of ply wood and fork to stop the rods moving about it goes over all the studs and fits up to both rods and fit a pace of round Dowling though both gudgeonpin holes to keep things in place now have fun yours anna j

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Hi Howard,

Mine is 500 twin. I have checked the pressure valve in the timing cover. Looks like it's stuck. I able to remove the spring but not the plunger. I have ordered new parts from Norvil but now no idea how to remove the old plunger from the timing cover. Have tried by heating up the cover also but it doesn't work at all.

No idea if there is any problem with the breather disc unless I dismantle the crankcase. As per test, there is an air flow sequent like on and off.

Previously howard_robinson wrote:

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Hi Anna,

My last weapon is to dismantle the crankcase if no other portion causes this kind of issues. Is there is any other possibility to cause this kind of issues? Example like rocker spindle, camshaft or pushrods?

Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:

 


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