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1963 m50 rear chain noise

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My m50 has standard 5/8 x 1/4 chain and sprockets for the rear drive. Recent chain replacement has led to a noticable rattle chain to upper chainguard.

The new chain is a quality item and of correct size..not japanese spec.

There was a rattle with the old chain but that was quite worn and I incorrectly assumed wear was causing side whip and hence contact.

Is this a common issue?

I am considering washers inside the upper cover where it bolts to the frame mounted lug with the hope it spreads the gap between the case and creating more space. Has anyone done this and resolved the noise?

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Hi John,

I ve had some 4 x M50;s and never experienced the issue. does the chain have much side movement on the sprockets??? and also check the chain half way around the read sprocket to see if you have excessive wear on the sprockets... other than that remove the chain guard and see if the front to rear alignment is correct.

Upload some pics of the sprockets / chain, if you would like some more advise

Cheers

Steve

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Previously steven lewis wrote:

Hi John,

I ve had some 4 x M50;s and never experienced the issue. does the chain have much side movement on the sprockets??? and also check the chain half way around the read sprocket to see if you have excessive wear on the sprockets... other than that remove the chain guard and see if the front to rear alignment is correct.

Upload some pics of the sprockets / chain, if you would like some more advise

Cheers

Steve

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Thanks Steve.I think I have resolved the problem by loosening the front mounting for the chainguard.This permits a noise free rotation of the chain.

I have made a sma!l alloy spacer to maintain the alignment.

Sadly the bike is a disappointment. Every job I do seems to uncover issues to resolve. An example is the rear wheel spacer which is not true and does not lock the wheel tight when the spindle is tightened.

There are other issues too but they are due to poor assembly by a previous owner.

I will fix them but right now my current intent is to sell it once all is sorted.

I used to enjoy tinkering but have got to the stage where I do not want to spend all my spare time doing so. My 1924 two stroke Enfield is more trouble free than this machine.

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About the rear wheel spacer...

Are you saying that after tightening the rear axel there is some play in the wheel?

i.e. if you grab the top of the wheel with one hand and the bottom of the wheel with the other there is some rocking movement evident? You do have the speedometer drive mounted in there, right?

The "Part # G18 pn13270 Speedometer drive distance piece" is present? The speedometer drive has to be present also.

You say that the rear wheel spacer G19 pn18235 is not true? Do you mean that the faces are not parallel to each other? If that is the case a new one is in order.

All the above questions apply to G9 Hub bearing distance piece.

Please let us know. Inquireing minds want to know

Hope that the new year will be better for you. Please do not give up on the Slimline Model 50. It is the sweetest bike you could own.

Mike

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Michael, I couldn't agree more. My slimline model 50, built from bits a long time ago is my favourite bike and if I were not in a hurry to get anywhere it would be my choice every time. Fantastic little bike.

John, once sorted you will just be able to get on it and go.

Failure is when you throw the towel in!

Happy New Year.Cool

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Thanks for the replies. I do not have a parts list but yes the speedo drive is fitted and has the top hat bush.

The play is evident when shaking the wheel but also in the speedo side spacer which is not parallel as suggested. I can tighten the stub axle and main axle and spin the spacer.

The brake side spacer is true.

My disappointment is in performance and mpg. I am not happy to potter at 45 which is its favourite pace. Meanwhile mpg is under 60.

Even with rose tinted glasses it fails to match the one I had years ago. 50/55mph cruise and up to 100 mpg..admittedly on real petrol.

My w800 Kawasaki gives 70mpg most times .

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Yes,once the problems are sorted I will do so.The only advantage that the Norton is hopefully not losing value whilst the Kawasaki certainly is. No amount of fuel saving compensates for that.

I think my experience of an unseen internet purchase,great expectations of times gone by with good rides on my old m50 were just that.Expectations.

I am cautious but we live and learn. I have had a bit of fun with it but overall it does not meet my expectations. We have all had a bike like that..

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I wonder what your carb set up is? Mine is a 926 with a 210 main jet + an 18 tooth engine sprocket, despite the 18" wheels it will hold 55mph all day, (On the level) top out at 70 mph and always return 80 mpg.

Handling and breaking superb.

A little more work John and you can sell the rice burner!

PS: Mike P could sell you an ES2 engine if you want a bit more power!

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Yes Neil I would love to sell the rice burner but it does everything I need from a bike.Believe me I have considered selling on many occasions but one ride changes my mind. I really have no need for several bikes but convince myself that each has a purpose!

Believe it or not I love the Norton but cannot live with it much longer.Last year I considered the 520 conversion but did not want to destroy originality to do so.An engine purchased outright is circa 3k so not cheap.

I went down the jetting route last year.I think all was standard apart from a 220 main. Top speed indicated has been 75/80 but only once.It has never achieved this since.I have played with timing and needle height and made improvements but they are minimal. No oil is used either.

The bike settles into a 45 mph cruise and needs working to get more. I am at 2/3 throttle much of the time.Mpg is low 50's but I have seen 60 on occasions.

Interestingly,Real Classics run a report of one this month with similar findings yet I know the 59 model I had in 1974 went better than my current one.

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John, as long as you kept the original engine then originality would not be compromised. A cheaper way of a larger engine might be to find a spare model 50 barrel and bore out to 400cc and use an AMC piston. I believe these go well. The other option might be to put together a 500cc motor. An Alfin cylinder head is going to be the hardest item to find. I have a spare pair of very late model 18 cases, in excellent condition, vapour blasted and could trade?

If your engine sprocket is 17 tooth, as some model 50's are, that might explain the lack of good cruising speed. 18 tooth sprockets are available from RGM but make sure you get the correct offset!

In 1974/75, an old man (Former 19S owner) told me that the Model 50 was the best of the three singles, now I am the old man and I believe he was right! (Having owned and ridden all three)

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John,

I'm sticking my head above the parapet because I've never owned a Model 50 or any other Norton single. However I have a Norton Electra of 1964 vintage, which I believe has the same rear wheel arrangement, give or take, as yours.

If you are tightening the rear axle and the spacer between speedo drive and swinging arm is still spinning, this is very bad news.

Either the thread on the rear axle is damaged, or it is bottoming in the stub axle. Or you have an incorrect, probably short, spacer, or you are missing a spacer.

The symptoms you describe are of a wheel that can drift left or right along the axle. This will drag the chain into the chainguard and give you a feel of slack when you strain the wheel by gripping top and bottom. Both symptoms you declare.

If you don't feel competent to sort it yourself, I'd suggest you take it to a Norton sympathetic specialist in your area.

Please take care.

Peter

Previously john_evans1 wrote:

Thanks Steve.I think I have resolved the problem by loosening the front mounting for the chainguard.This permits a noise free rotation of the chain.

I have made a sma!l alloy spacer to maintain the alignment.

Sadly the bike is a disappointment. Every job I do seems to uncover issues to resolve. An example is the rear wheel spacer which is not true and does not lock the wheel tight when the spindle is tightened.

There are other issues too but they are due to poor assembly by a previous owner.

I will fix them but right now my current intent is to sell it once all is sorted.

I used to enjoy tinkering but have got to the stage where I do not want to spend all my spare time doing so. My 1924 two stroke Enfield is more trouble free than this machine.

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Yes Peter it is dangerous. This is why it is not in use. The spacer does appear to be faulty as previously stated. I do not have parts books but looking online gives enough info to suggest all spacers and shims are present. I can just about spin the right hand spacer which is not good. The fact it is not parallel does not help The axle has undamaged threads and does not bottom.

. I have made up a sacrificial spacer to determine correct spacing. This permits the axle to be tight and without play.The speedo drive does not bind.

Once I find a piece of en8 I will machine and bore a spacer to size.

Thankfully I do feel competent to perform repairs and manufacture some parts on my lathe and mill.

The thought of finding a norton expert in my locality is a bit of a joke..we have japanese main dealers but hardly experts..i could rant for ages about how the dealer handled basic warranty work on my Kawasaki. After a torrid time I decided to maintain it myself and forego the warranty.

 


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