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1950 Manx rear brake pedal

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I am currently restoring a plunger Manx and after making new footrests sitting in the correct position it looks like the pedal I have is too long. After looking in the parts list for 1950 all models seem to use the same brake pedal, but surely the Manx version should be shorter? Any help appreciated!

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The 1948 parts list show three different part numbers across models.  Manx’s having their own number, A11M/498. I have a 1951 Manx frame and the pedal that I have is too long as well.  In my case though, my bike is registered/titled (here in the United States) as a 1948 International that someone swapped the frame out at some point in its life. I can’t believe they would have made a change to just one option across all models in a couple years time,  but I’m no expert on the subject. Good luck-Pat

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Hi Peter,

   The link below shows a 1949 Manx which has the same brake pedal as your 1950 model. The earlier Manx used a similar pedal but with a longer 4" centres actuating arm. This was because the earlier type was used with a top 12 o'clock brake plate arm, while the later 1949/50 type was 2+7/8" centres and a bottom 6 o'clock brake plate arm. The reason for this was to stop the brake anchor section of the plunger slider from hitting the brake rod under extreme deflection such as on the TT course.

   A friend of mine has had some of these cast in SG iron, but I'm not sure if he has any left. Send me a personal message through this site if you want any contact details.

 

MANX NORTON MOTORCYCLE 1949 500CC DOHC D11M DOCUMENTARY 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Really good bit of information explaining the changes, thank you Richard.  One question I have, were the original Manx pedals on post war plunger pre featherbed frames an alloy part? Thanks again -Pat

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Hi Pat,

   All garden gate production Manx rear pedals were maleable cast iron, although it's possible someone such as Francis Beart could have made copies in aluminium but this might be be fragile due to the length. The pre featherbed works racers had different pedals which may have been aluminium, but I'm not sure on that. The repro ones in SG iron are heavier that the originals, but if that's all you can get, they are a good copy. The other option is to shorten a standard road spec pedal using a similar looking  AMC  foot pad welded/brazed to the shorter Norton arm.

 

 


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