1949 ES2 clutch body removal?

Sadly, yes, if it is stiff. It has an outside thread to screw into the body and a bolt to bear on the end of the shaft. If you are lucky it might just come off. I seem to remember mine needed the extractor the first time it had been moved for 10 years of more, but on a second visit it came of in my hands.

Haynes say 'extreme care' must be taken if using tyre levers etc to avoid damage to casings..I can't imagine they'd work if it's stiff.

I wonder if a hot air gun might help? Never tried it.

I think it would be fairly easy to make a tool to pull the clutch centre off. A piece of steel plate, 1/4" thick, could be drilled to take bolts to screw into the holes where the screws holding the springs go. Another hole could be drilled and tapped in the centre, maybe 1/2", and a large bolt could be screwed in to pull the clutch centre off.

Hi Ian, Maybe third time lucky so here goes,

You do not need a special tool. Remove the nut and washer on the main-shaft, re-fit the thrust plate, spring cups, springs and fixing nuts, remove the clutch rod adjusting screw and lock nut, and replace the adjuster with a longer bolt of the same thread. It will do exactly the same as a puller but cheaper. You may need to tap the clutch at the sprocket with a soft hammer,

Best of luck, Rob.

Whatever you do, don't use tyre levers against the tin case. Really, forget it, buy the tool.

Yep -as Adam says - get the tool. Saves an awful lot of farting about. They're about £12 - £14 on E-bay. The back plate on these clutches is a lot thinner than the later Norton and AMC ones and is easily bent so using a large 'sprocket puller' is a no no!.

Cheers.

Ian.

Hi Ian,

I believe i am right in saying that this os the tool you requirehttp://bit.ly/UHDfhF- perhaps someone can confirm.

There are others available too, but most are for Commandos, and I believe they are very different.

If I remember correctly, the thrust plate on the early Norton clutch had no adjuster. The plate was pressed steel and the clutch actuated via a mushroom shaped insert in the mainshaft. This was a very good design, and did not have any adjustment for spring tension since the mushroom kept the thrust plate parallel to the clutch plates.

Colin.

Previously wrote:

Hi Ian, Maybe third time lucky so here goes,

You do not need a special tool. Remove the nut and washer on the main-shaft, re-fit the thrust plate, spring cups, springs and fixing nuts, remove the clutch rod adjusting screw and lock nut, and replace the adjuster with a longer bolt of the same thread. It will do exactly the same as a puller but cheaper. You may need to tap the clutch at the sprocket with a soft hammer,

Best of luck, Rob.

I'm sure that you're correct Colin. The pressure plate adjuster appeared with the AMC gearbox when they went over to the cam and ball lifting system. Prior to that, adjustment was carried out on the worm.

This is an ex-WD clutch puller. It's a joy to use.

[IMG]http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg164/commando16h/NOC/ClutchHubExtractor.jpg[/IMG]

think this is the same puller i need just been taking mine apart top get the gearbox out to fix that leaky output shaft bearing.

was a nightmare getting the primary chain case off some bright spark decided it would be a good idea to mastik in the rubber seal ring

Attachments
chaincase.jpg

Previously wrote:

think this is the same puller i need just been taking mine apart top get the gearbox out to fix that leaky output shaft bearing.

was a nightmare getting the primary chain case off some bright spark decided it would be a good idea to mastik in the rubber seal ring

Yes, it's the same puller you require. While you are at it check the cush rubbers inside the housing. You may be surprised at what messis inside sometimes.

Regards, Paul.

will do paul just need the puller to turn up so i can crack on with it before it starts getting cold. really enjoying working on the bike it is just so simple with no hidden bolts.

think i need to invest in a new chain case rubber seal the old one is in a mess as it was stuck in using some sealant and was a nightmare toseparate from the inner case i had to run a sharp blade around as much of the seal as poss before i could get it to move.

Hi.

Sealant/mastic - leave the inner chaincase soaking in a tray of petrol overnight - this usually removes the stuff although you will have to let the rubber seal 'dry' out as it will swell.

Regards.

Ian.

Got the clutch tool today but it does not want to fit the thread in the clutch, is there any variations on these ?

clutch body measures as 1" .1/4 same as the tool but the thread does not even try to start and no obvious reason why almost feels like when your trying to wind in a RH thread into a LH

i have attached a close up picture

Attachments
201_0509.jpg

reviously wrote:

Got the clutch tool today but it does not want to fit the thread in the clutch, is there any variations on these ?

clutch body measures as 1" .1/4 same as the tool but the thread does not even try to start and no obvious reason why almost feels like when your trying to wind in a RH thread into a LH

i have attached a close up picture

Hi Duncan, looking closely at your photograph, there is a slight dentmark at 2 o'clock. The thread is fine so even the slightest damage will restrict screwing the extractor in.

I have known for these reproduction extractors to be oversize!I have a genuine Norton item and a repro, and there is afew thoudifference between very tight and a smooth fit.

If you have access to a lathe thenput a slight lead on the extractor.

Good luck, Paul.

hi paul

was just double checking measurements and it is indeed slightly oversized so i assume that is the problem, i noticed the dint too but it's not actually on the thread but i will file that out just to be sure.

Grrr wanted to get all this apart this weekend

Hi.

RGM does them - they're the same as the later AMC clutches - might be worth asking if he does the extractor too.

Regards.

Ian.

From this web site. NOC Shop.

Colin

Previously wrote:

That is not good news about the extractors from Ebay being slightly oversize. I am just about to buy one myself. I do know that the backplate is easy to damage, that is why mine is having to come off as someone has butchered it in the past!

Does anyone know where to get cush drive rubbers from?

G'day Nick,

I have just measured my clutch puller for my '51 single thatI knocked up years ago and it is 20 TPI x 1 - 1/4"Dia. (1.247" actual).

Paul