1948 ES2 500 oil change

Fabrizio Tapia previously wrote at Thursday 30th June 2011 at 03.17hrs:

Hello, I need to perform an oil change to my 1947 es2 500. Where can I find information on how to or a maintenance manual for the motorcycle? any input will be greatly appreciated. Best

Ciao Fabrizio,Ho un libro originale di istruzioni che vi posso inviare.

Qual Ã? il suo numero di telefono?

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

Qual Ã? il suo numero di telefono?

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

What the heck happened to my last post?

Do we really have to put up with this Ploneboard rubbish?

Fabrizio Tapia previously wrote at Thursday 30th June 2011 at 03.17hrs:

Hello, I need to perform an oil change to my 1947 es2 500. Where can I find information on how to or a maintenance manual for the motorcycle? any input will be greatly appreciated. Best

Ciao Fabrizio,Ho un libro originale di istruzioni che vi posso inviare.

Qual Ã? il suo numero di telefono?

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

chiamarti gratis!Paul

Qual Ã? il suo numero di telefono?

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

chiamarti gratis!Paul

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

chiamarti gratis!Paul

Qual Ã? il suo numero di telefono?

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

chiamarti gratis!Paul

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

chiamarti gratis!Paul

Posso chiamarti gratis!Paul

Paul,

You can call me via Skype. User name kateme640. I live in the US and my italian is rusty, i truly appreciate you write me in Italian do, I grow up speaking and hearing it from my parents.

Best

Fabrizio

Fabrizio Tapia previously wrote on Thursday 30th June 2011 at 18.35hrs:

Paul,

You can call me via Skype. User name kateme640. I live in the US and my italian is rusty, i truly appreciate you write me in Italian do, I grow up speaking and hearing it from my parents.

Best

Fabrizio

Fabrizio,

I don't think I have Skype. I'll ask my doctor...........

My teenage daughter knows more about that kind of stuff. I'll see her this weekend.

Unless you have an email (AT instead of @)?

Paul

funny...

..

*To the NOC webmaster:

I posted a couple of full-stops just now, so that Ploneboard can do what it likes with them and maybe allow me to post this message un-fragmented. Feel free to delete that last one.* Paul.

Fabrizio,

Please forgive my facetious joke in the last message. With you looking for information, you may have not appreciated it. Sorry.

I hope we will be able to talk soon and work out how to get the original Norton Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book to you. I will be happy to send it as my interest lies with featherbed twins and singles, whereas this book covers immediate post-war singles.

While I think you will enjoy having the original book, I donât think it will be of much use for the oil change procedure, especially if you have not done one before. I noticed while reading through it they do not go into detail, or give much in the way of illustration to guide you.

Itâs just a user handbook, for the generation who were assumed to have been born knowing how to do these things (being light-hearted also went with the territory).

Therefore Iâll go through the steps here and other more knowledgeable people can add what they like or correct what is wrong.

A selection of Whit/BSF spanners will be needed. Trying to work on bikes from this era with A/F or metric tools is bad practise as it always ends up damaging the hexagons of the nuts and bolts. Iâm attaching a photo of a nice set of (Britool) combination spanners to give you an idea of the most useful type to look out for.

Flat combination spanners are the type I choose. Although those in the picture were a birthday present from my children the other day, so they (the spanners) have not been christened yet.

Before you start, it would be best to buy a few sets of sealing-washers for the 2 drain plugs, also the filter connection in the oil tank.

With the right tools and:

A 1 gallon bowl or a modified oil can as a catch tank (your bike should have around 3 ? pints in the tank & the rest will be in the bottom of the crankcase).

A plastic funnel is useful. You can wrap rag around the rim (protect your paintwork) and tie it so it rests under the tank drain plug and feed pipe connection, which has the mesh filter behind it. A short length of hose is sometimes handy to make up the distance from funnel to catch tank.

Lots of rags to mop up spills.

Now you are all set. Open the shed door and start the bike, letting it fast-idle until itâs good & hot.

You will be taking out two drain bolts initially. The plan will be to drain the oil tank, then the crankcase. After that, flush the oil tank

The drain plug on the oil tank will probably have a hex for a 1/4Whit spanner. I always use a socket or ring spanner if there is room to do so. Never an open-ended spanner. Remove the plug and allow the (hot!) oil to flow into the funnel & catch tank. It shouldnât take more than a few minutes.

Then after disconnecting the feed hose at the oil tank (mark that hose by wrapping some tape around it so you donât mix it up with the return hose later). Next unscrew the hex which will have the mesh filter behind it, inside the tank and remove that.

Loosen the sump drain plug at the very bottom of the crankcase. I donât know what size yours will be (they are a large 7/8â Whit on the twins). A socket or box-spanner will be best for this.

Remove the drain plug, remembering there will be hot oil in there too. I donât know, but there may be a mesh filter inside this crankcase drain plug, which will also need cleaning.

Clean the drain plugs & mesh filter. A brass wire brush is my choice. Petrol is good for cleaning. If you have access to a high-pressure airline you can also blow the filter through. Wear safety goggles while you do that.

Then inspect the sealing washers. Those will be copper (on the sump plug) and may be fibre on the tank plug and feed pipe/filter connection.

New seals would be good, but the copper ones may be filed flat and annealed before reusing.

Now will be the time to flush your oil tank out. Disconnect the return hose first. I use petrol, but be careful and you can mop up any remaining in the tank through the filter hole.

If your seals are ready you can now put them on & start refitting the plugs and the mesh filter. Then re-make the oil-pipe connections.

Tightening is something which needs practice.

Advice from an experienced hand will be useful here. Tightening enough to compress the seal and hold, but not so tight you damage the threads. Using a small spanner so it feels right, then another 1/8 turn is a guide. Having someone with you who knows the drill with old engines is invaluable for a novice. There ought to be someone from your nearest NOC section who would be willing to coach you through. Itâll be fun. Take your time and remember to have a couple of cold ones ready in the fridge.

Using your (clean) funnel add your 4 pints to the tank, and the jobâs nearly done. Roll the bike outside, run through your checks that you tightened everything, then start the engine and let it idle while you check carefully for leaks until the motor is warm enough to run without choke, check for leaks again and its time for a short run.

It would be wise to go over the drain plugs and oil tank connections again when you get back from your run round the block.

A long post, but Iâm sure there would be more that others could add.

Good luck.

Paul

I forgot to post the picture....

Thank you Paul!!! sorry for the delay in answering and thank you for the thorough response. I will let you know how it goes when I do the oil change (probably Tuesday). Regarding the manual I love to have it, it is possible to send it to me to be payed at destination?. I also could give you and address in London were a friend can send it to me, and an other option will be mid September when I will be 2 days in London and could meet you there.

Please let me know what is the best way for you and how to compensate any costs you may incur.

BTW, I thought your joke was funny.

Best Regards

Fabrizio

Previously wrote:

..

Thank you Paul!!! sorry for the delay in answering and thank you for the thorough response. I will let you know how it goes when I do the oil change (probably Tuesday). Regarding the manual I love to have it, it is possible to send it to me to be payed at destination?. I also could give you and address in London were a friend can send it to me, and an other option will be mid September when I will be 2 days in London and could meet you there.

Please let me know what is the best way for you and how to compensate any costs you may incur.

BTW, I thought your joke was funny.

Best Regards

Fabrizio

Fabrizio Tapia previously wrote on Sunday 3rd July 2011 at 13.35hrs:

Thank you Paul!!! sorry for the delay in answering and thank you for the thorough response. I will let you know how it goes when I do the oil change (probably Tuesday). Regarding the manual I love to have it, it is possible to send it to me to be payed at destination?. I also could give you and address in London were a friend can send it to me, and an other option will be mid September when I will be 2 days in London and could meet you there.

Please let me know what is the best way for you and how to compensate any costs you may incur.

BTW, I thought your joke was funny.

Best Regards

Fabrizio

Hello Fabrizio,

No, I won't send it pay-at-destination.

Look in the post: 'Contact for Fabrizio Tapia' (in News and Views).

You will see an email address there. Send an email (subject: NOC Paul Wilson) and we will be able to communicate within 24hrs.

I would like the handbook to belong to someone using and enjoying post-war Norton singles, not an eBay-style profiteer. So I will put it in an envelope and send it to you. That will be that.

I'm sure I could make lots of money selling my Norton items, but would not feel any richer for it, when there are real enthusiasts who struggle to find these things.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Paul