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Sprocket puller

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Quick question - will the socket puller sold by the club and noted as "pre Mk3" fit a 20T engine sprocket? I'm having trouble sourcing one for my '55 ES2 George

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Hi George, I suspect you need a suitably modified 2 leg puller and muscle. I have a Pukka vintage Norton puller for my 99 and it only just did the job.

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Thanks Robert. I'm looking now at one now by Screwfix. What do you mean when you say "suitably modified"?George

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If the job is similar to a Dommy the sprocket is on a taper and needs a lot of "pull" . The Norton puller has feet that have been shaped to get between the teeth ,the puller arms are a straight pull ,not angled, the center bolt is large diameter with a very fine thread. All this makes for a powerfull tool.It still needed a good "whack" with a hammer to break the taper which released with a BANG!. Apparently some almost just fall off. Not in my world. Try Russel Motors for one.Someone opened up a packing case full years ago.

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I tried Russel's, Robert, but they said they had all gone. I think I'll be reduced to buying one from Screwfix and hope that it's up to the job.George

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I borrowed a mate's generic 'universal' puller when working on my Commando, and frankly it wasn't worth a carrot!

Don't be shy with the blow torch either if it's been on there a while!

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Thanks guys. My fear is that I'll spend over £30 on what is indeed a powerful looking piece of kit and then find that the sprocket pops off easily anyway! I's only been on there for a coupe of years and a few miles as the bike is a re-build.It sounds as though it's just the luck of the draw as to whether the socket sticks or flies off.

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Bought a great universal one from Halfords, silver line I think, concerts from two to three keg. Worked great and if there had been any issues I'd have taken it straight back.

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Too late Stuart - I'd already bought one from Screwfix. Looked good. 2 / 3 legs. Got it back only to find that the hooks would not fit behind the sprocket. "No probs" I thought,"I'll take a bit off with the angle grinder." The metals was very good quality and the angle grinder barely touched it. Having already found that the gas container on the blow torch was empty (of course!) I thought "well let's be silly and give it a go with a tyre lever." I had an old home made one that my father made some 70 years ago that had a good lip on it and made from pretty thick hefty steel. I placed the back of it against the top of the bolt just to one side of the drive sprocket drive, placed the lipped part behind the sprocket and gave it a good welt with a steel hammer. Lo! the sprocket just jumped off! So that's £12 up my shirt. Why didn't I try the simplest method first??My thanks to all who responded. Now I have to set about making the chaincase oil tight - but that's another thread!George

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That sounded almost too easy, you want the taper to be transmitting the drive - not the key. Before re-assembling I would suggest lapping the sprocket to the shaft using fine grinding paste. The aim is to achieve a uniform dull grey colour all the way round, both on the shaft and inside the sprocket, indicating that the internal & external tapers match perfectly. You will need the puller next time! Make sure you clean off all the grinding paste when you have finished lapping. Apologies if this is teaching grannies to suck eggs.

Ian McD

PS I use a Sykes Pickavant 860 series 2 leg thin jaw gear puller, but I think that is more expensive than the options you have already looked at (although it fits without any help from an angle grinder)

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Good advice. Ian. Although this time I have to say I'm pleased it did pop off!Hopefully when it's all back together and I've cured the chaincase incontinence (hoho) it won't need to come off for some long time.Thanks for your help.George

 



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