Could anyone pass onto me the fuse values for the fuse holders packed away inside the Mk3 ES headlight shell. The circuits they protect are: U/Y Blue/Yellow, W (White), N/G (Brown/Green).
Digressing somewhat I am having problems bleeding both brakes. Bled and bled both but back brake needs several pumps to start biting on the disc, whilst the front lever is about an inch from the H/bar when pulled in. Have had the rear caliper hanging below the reservoir to try and shift air. New seals and master cylinder. Front caliper has new seals but am using the original caliper. I am using DOT 4, I believe it recommends DOT 3? Apart from the pipe feeds into each caliper the pipes are of the Goodridge type. Cant see any leaks at all. Any thoughts?
Regarding bleeding the bra…
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Hi Mike, There are no fuse…
Hi Mike,
There are no fuses as standard inside the headlamp shell.
I suggest you just study the circuit diagram in the manual for wheresomeone may have fitted them.
Tony
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Only fuse on the Mk 3 is t…
Only fuse on the Mk 3 is the 35 amp inline battery fuse. Somebody must have added the headlamp shell fuses you have. Have a look at the standard Nortonwiring diagram for the Mk 3.
Also had trouble bleeding brakes on my Mk 3 and Mk1A 850's. It took time and several pump-throughs of fluid ,following the standard bleeding process as described in manual , but eventually all air was expelled and brake suddenly firms up as pads clamp solidlyonto disc with only normal small movement of lever being needed. Later also upgraded front brakes on both bikeswithRGM and Norvil kits which made a big improvement over original Norton set-up.
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According to my diagram, U…
According to my diagram, U/Y is the indicator circuit; W is switched 12V power from the ignition switch and N/G is the headlamp flasher circuit. There is probably some value in fusing the switched 12V power (20 - 30 A should be plenty) but having the other two seems a bit redundant. In any case, 10A fuses should be fine.
I added a separate fuse for the aux power socket on mine otherwise there is just the 30A main fuse from the battery.
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The master cylinder piston…
The master cylinder piston front face must far enough back to allow fluid to flow forward until trapped and pressurised by the piston. If you can't get pressure then my money is on the piston needing adjustment back (to the right on the front master cylinder)
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Check out the accessnorton…
Check out the accessnorton.com forum under "classic Norton Commando" and then "trouble bleeding madass 140 master cylinder" there is a good diagram explaining it all
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Regarding bleeding the brakes, I have often found similar problems after bleeding various sorts of motorcycle brakes.
The solution that has worked every time for me is to cable-tie the lever to the handlebars (and hang a heavy weight from the rear brake pedal) and leave them overnight.
I don't know for sure why they don't work properly beforehand and why they are perfect afterwards; it works so I don't ask too many questions (or I might upset the elves in the workshop.......)