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Gearbox issues

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So, after putting all the things that were wrong right, I took the bike out for a ride this morning.

started third kick and sounded OK. 

Went out and straight away noticed that the clutch is super light, almost too light, and also it is slipping quite easily. That can be sorted no problem, but the gearbox is a worry? I definitely pulled away in 1st, as there is a definite neutral between 1st and 2nd. 2nd felt OK, but as I snicked it onto 3rd, the bike revved away as if it was a false neutral? I pulled the clutch and gave it a heavier prod and what seemed like 4th engaged? I took the bike up to around 45 mph and it seemed OK, I mean the revs seemed to suggest (if the Speedo is correct) that it was in fact 4th gear. Got on a straight bit of road and had a little play up and down the box, and the bike is either missing 3rd or top, I suspect it's 3rd.

Has anyone come across this before? Any suggestions welcome!

Steve.

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Back to basics.  Primary chain case off.  Make sure the clutch bolts are screwed tight if it's the original type Norton clutch.  It sounds like they are loose.  Possibly because the AMC box has them slackened back a bit to adjust the pressure plate lift.  Unlike the Norton clutch for Doll's Head and Laydown boxes where they are snugged down and the plate is lifted square by the 'mushroom'.
 

Hi David thanks for the reply.

do you know how many studs the standard Norton clutch has? Or indeed how I can tell what clutch it is? Mine has a 4 stud fixing and yes the clutch is so light it feels like the springs are either loose or non existent! 

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All were originally 3 spring clutches whether AMC or older Norton clutches. The only exception were the Sturmey Archer clutches on pre 1931 singles which were either a single large spring or 6 normal springs.
 

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Sorry I was wrong about the number of studs on my clutch, it's a 3 stud version so the adjustment of the springs should be tightened up and not backed off as per David's post?

thanks again chaps,

Steve.

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As David advised, if you have a Norton clutch then the springs are tightened down fully. Only AMC clutches have the springs backed off to get even lift on the cover plate. 
What year is your machine?

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... is that the so-called AMC type has an adjuster in the middle - the original Norton one doesn't and it has the mushroom lifter. The former needs the springs adjusting for even lift; the latter has the bolts tightened right down as the mushroom gives the even lift automatically.

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Here is a photo of my clutch. Am I also correct in thinking the cush drive is in the clutch as ther isnt one on the crank?

Best regards,

Steve.

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Progress! The clutch issue was indeed the spring screws were not tightened down. I tightened them and instantly it felt like a proper clutch! Now the gearbox.... I managed to strip the gearbox in situ and it would seem the selector plate had been set up in the wrong position, which of course meant that 4th gear was not available due to the fact that the selector knuckle was at the end of its travel?

Anyway, I set the plate up and tested it without the gear sets in and could obtain 5 positions, which should mean I can select 4 gears. Built the box back up and tested it without the clutch in and success! We now have 4 gears.

A question re oil though, what oil do you use in these boxes? I have done a bit of research on this site and from what I found there are mixed opinions, either straight GL4 90, or SAE 50. The bike won't be used that much, maybe the occasional run out in summer, so am thinking to go with the 90, any thoughts?

thanks again for all the comments and help, it is indeed a great site!

Best regards,

Steve.

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You will get different views.  90 grade gear oil has similar viscosity to 40 grade engine oil at gearbox temperatures.  A 20/50 (which you might have in the shed for another vehicle) is essentially roughly a 20 grade engine type oil at gearbox temperature (which is lower than engine temperature, so multigrade is not appropriate).
Just make sure you keep it topped up!  You might be lucky but don't expect the same amount of oil to be in it when you take it out after a rest.  
I use the same oil as in the engine, just to keep life simpler.  It has straight cut teeth so high pressure additives designed for hypoid gears ought not to be needed.

Thanks David.

I was thinking of just adding mineral 20/50 (Morris golden film,same as engine) but wasn't too sure hence the question. I think i will add that as I already have a supply in the shed! I will see how it fairs after a road test, and Ill keep a clean jug under it so i can chuck what comes out straight back in!

Best regards,

Steve.

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When 20/50 and similar multigrade oils became readily available in the late 1960s,  Castrol promoted GTX as a 'one type suits all' product. They even produced diagrams showing that it was suitable for use in the engine, gearbox, forks and primary cases. It probably did not have the refinement of a dedicated EP80 or 90 oil for the gearbox but did save having lots of half opened tins of varying grades lying around the garage.
John Hudson used to swear by it and he rode tens of thousands of miles each year.
As seen below is quite a useful chart.
oil

 



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