hello norton tuning experts,
i need to check piston and valve clearance with a dry build and wondered what clay to use? art shop?
clearances?
any tips?
eddie
Modelling clay/ plasticene…
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valve clearance
Hello John,
i have installed a spitfire profile cam with beehive valve springs from Jim Scmidt.
i suppose i should contact Jim direct but he will expect some figures from me.So thanks John , i will look for around 40 thou minimum.. If less than 40 thou then do you know any shop that sells a thicker head gasket in the U.K.?
Road not race.
I will look out for Dunstall tuning notes but i thought it mainly covered cam timing.
I will try an art shop for the modelling clay.
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Hi Eddie,I don't know of…
Hi Eddie,
I don't know of anyone who sells thicker gaskets. How much more lift does that cam give over a standard one?
It may be just fine, as standard motors had lots of valve/piston clearance. The more usual way would be to deepen the valve pockets in the pistons if you have a competent engineer, but you might not need that.
Is your motor a 750?
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valve clearance
I seem to remember doing this many years ago by :- assemble the lot, turn the crank so the valve in question is fully open, then see how much further the valve can be pressed down. That checks the full valve head area.
I await to be shot down .
Regards all....
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Bang bang.
"I await to be shot down ."
Not meaning to shoot anyone down, but valve fully open is probably not the point where the valve is closest to the piston.
The inlet valve is likely to be closest to the piston crown shortly after TDC at start of the intake stroke.
The exhaust valve is likely to be closest to the piston crown shortly before TDC.
Something I do is give the valve adjusters a (roughly) 0.040" negative clearance by closing the clearance to zero, then screwing the adjuster in another full turn.
Then I very gently turn the crankshaft, feeling for resistance caused by valve/piston contact.
Now waiting to be shot down myself...
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...and use lightweight…
...and use lightweight springs? Like carburettor springs?...
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valve clearance
You're quite right Michael, I could'nt recall exactly how I did it it, obviously without the camchain !
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valve clearance
thank you for all your replies.
a thicker head gasket could be preferable to piston pocket machining but i may have no choice if the valves contact the piston. and the piston looks high to me.
i am using this second hand cam follower conversion to triumph R cam followers , spitfire cam, which has been a little harder than i thought as the locating holes of the blocks were drilled too low and i had to start again.
Jim Schmidts U Tube videos are excellent.
valve clearances and pushrod length still to do and its only a road bike 500cc.So is it worth it?
i will try Michael Balls suggestion first [ without cam chain first , then with cam chain connected ] as the method will tell me if i m in the park or not.
Thanks Guys., its the suggestions i needed.
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valve clearance
My memory fails me these days, I did something decades ago to check clearance, anybody's' guess now what I did, I just remember pressing the valve down to see if anything touched when the valve was fully open.
If the cam timing is correct, it seems the most obvious way to check there is safe clearance.
Oh well, each to his own .......
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valve clearance test
Well the inlet valves made contact with the pistons which i think was due to using larger inlet valves from a 99 cylinder head on a 88 barrel and pistons. so clay next.
The Gandini pistons i am using protrude about 0.8 mm above the top of the spigot. I think that is too high. Any opinions?
With the cylinder head located on the barrel spigot , without the head gasket, the gap is around 0.6 mm and the cylinder head gasket is 1 mm thick. Not much room for error?
Any opinions?
Off course, using barrels and heads from different years and cc will throw up issues but other than time consuming , its all quite interesting. A bit like doing metalwork at school all those years ago.
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Tops of high compression…
Tops of high compression pistons do reach above the spigots on my 88SS. Picture attached. I think I've a better one but can't find it at present...but these are (I believe) not even quite at the top.
The "standard" pistons available in recent years have all been high compression versions. Another picture shows difference between piston heights.
I did some measurements to work out compression ratios. It's not easy to match the published values. And 88 barrels came in at least two different heights.
The HC piston is 2.4mm taller than the early low compression piston.


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Well done finding the valve…
Well done finding the valve to piston contact at this early stage.
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valve bounce
hi micheal.not hard to find a problem with piston clearance as the engine would not turn past either inlet valve. i should have checked the valve pocket size before assembly but its a piston machining issue now..
thanks for photos David. my piston protrudes as far as yours so i must have the same high compression. What was the engines performance like.Was it peaky? pinked? I feel that i don t need high compression nowadays with all the risk of holing a piston. But i also remember that the dommies sometimes felt down on power around the 60 to 70mph mark. I m using a non downport, 1960, 99 cylinder head. single carb.
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A good 88 will hum along at…
A good 88 will hum along at 80 all day. And put 100 on the clock.
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Modelling clay/ plasticene works fine
Get a copy of Dunstalls tuning notes, might help
I've always gone with 40thou valve to piston as measured with clay. Some may prefer more, it depends on your cam and springs