I have a slimline Domi frame that needs repainting. I’ve had a couple of repairs done to a lower tube so there’s a bit of bare metal but most of the frame is still the original paint in slightly poor condition. I’ve rubbed down the original paint to give the new paint a key but I’ve not taken it all back to bare metal. I was going to rattle can spray the whole thing with etch primer (good/bad idea?) and then brush paint the top coat as I don’t have access to a spray booth. I’ve looked at Tekaloid Coach paint and POR15 Engine Enamel. Does anyone have any views on these paints or advice on some other paint brand that works well? I’m also thinking of painting the mudguards as well.
hello now tekaloid paints are oil based where as you will need to stip back the paintwork and respray with cellulose paints try asking Nuagane paints Bedford yours anna j
Tony has written that he has no spray equipment and wants to brush paint. What's the problem with using an oil based paint? It won't attack the original, whatever that is, will it?
... but the last tin I bought from them gave a very poor finish (I accept it may have been my technique). I have now transferred my allegiance to Paragon: https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Paragon-Paint-Products/
I add a small amount of Owatrol oil and use good quality synthetic brushes. I know everybody says use Hamilton's Perfection but I've never achieved a decent finish with them. Rather than wet or dry I prefer production paper for rubbing down. It's used dry so isn't as messy and doesn't promote rust but you do have to thoroughly clean the dust off.
The Paragon paint gives a high gloss finish; is touch dry in 24 hours and it's very hard. This photo flatters it a bit - I'll be redoing the mudguards as there are some flaws but smart enough for the time being. BTW the oil tank hasn't been repainted.
Just be careful as normal-POR-15 is not sun / UV proof, you will have to overcoat with POR Chassis Black. However, POR is like flint once set (uses humidity to accelerate hardening), so never brush from the can. Pour a little out into another container, seal the can and invert to seal the lid.
There is no need to prime the parts, but abrade well and wipe with solvent; once the POR has gone off hard on the frame / other parts, lightly sand, say # 400 grit, again wipe with thinners and overcoat with POR Chassis Black. You will not be dissapointed.
Did a slimline oil tank, looks like stove enamel but follow the instructions to the letter and take your time.
Thanks everyone. That Paragon paint sounds less tricky than POR or Tekaloid so I think I’ll give that a go.
I’ll let you know how I get on with it.