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Commando swinging arm symmetry

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Can anyone tell me if the center of the distance between the ears for the rear axle/spindle is the centerline of the chassis and therefore the centerline of the rims ?  Thanks for any help on this 

Richard 

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Wouldn't the more important question be:  Is the rear sprocket in line with the drive sprocket?

Mike

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Mike - Thanks for the reply  -  I am trying to check alignment of newly built front and rear rims in newly assembled chassis.

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My Mk3 has always challenged me, because the rear wheel never seems to line up with the mudguard which is central to the frame, but the distance between the two faces of the rim is equal on both sides.

The other thig to be careful of is looking at the front and thinking the crankcase halfs are equal, the joint is not central to the frame !!

When I had the front wheel built with 18" rim ,to match the back, the wheel builder said that he gave me as much offset as he dared but it was nearly over centre, ie too far to the left...This is because the Mk3 has different front wheel spacers to the others with right hand disc.

All you can do is fit both wheels and get a long straight edge, like a fluorescent tube, and see if they are level. You will have to prop the bike up as you cant do this on the centre stand !

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I did it this way . I cut two wooden shoes with parallel sides square to the bottom, the widths of which were made equal to the tire seat on the rim and the top cut with a radius to match the tire seat . I scribed centerlines on these shoes and laid out a straight centerline on a piece of ply . I first checked that the front rim was central to the fork stanchions with a gauge cut out of aluminum coil stock . This was done before the front mudguard was installed - the photo was taken after mudguard installation only to illustrate the gauge itself.  After mounting the wheels the chassis was set upon the ply with the centers of the shoes aligned with the centerline on the ply. 

 All seems in order . I built the wheels with rim offsets to match the originals before disassembly - the offsets check with those listed on RGM's site and the centerlines on the shoes lie perfectly on the centerline on the ply .

Hi Richard

I have a problem on my 77` Mk3 the handle bar`s when riding seems like they are not right as if I am riding with the forks twisted, it has got new forks and I have undone the pinch bolts and the top Nut`s and twisted them to were I think they are right but go out for a ride and they seem to be the forks are out of line, I just don`t know what to do, also if you take your hands off the Handle bars at around 40 mph it go`s into like a speed wobble, the wheels were done by Devon rim company but don`t know what else it could be ? any help would be a great help, I was going to put my own Thread up to ask this but see who can help here......sorry for the butt in.

 

Cheers Maurice   

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Are you certain you have the correct yokes ? The 850 chassis has a different headstock angle IIRC . Also be sure you have the correct wheel spacers in the correct locations front and rear . You should not be able to twist the forks . Are the stanchions new and straight and did you draw them up into the taper in the upper yoke with a proper drawing tool before tightening the pinch bolts in the lower yoke ?

yes I have the right yokes...not had a look at the wheel spaces as I put them back in as they came out so will have to check that one out, when I say twist the forks I mean with the pinch bolts undone and holding the front wheel between my leg`s and twisting the handle bars to Align them, and yes they are new stanchions as the old ones were rusty, but the new ones still do the same thing as the old ones that`s why I thought is there something wrong with the Yokes....I did not know there was a tool to put them in the top yoke as I thought you just have everything lose and Bounce the forks up and down ?

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When you have done most of the above, tighten the pinch bolt last. This side should take a natural position on the wheel spindle bolt. The alignment of the hub is taken from from one side only, not the pinch bolt side. 

Distance between the holes in the yokes, and thus stanchions, is often used to centre the front rim, in 99.9% cases it will be OK, but the rim should be checked to the drop of the headstock for ultimate accuracy.  

The rear wheel rim does not sit central to the rear swingarm on a MK3, you will notice this when it is correct, as the gap from the tyre wall to the inner edge of the swingarm is slightly different.

There are some vernier upgrade kits that are installed the wrong way around, this will cause a wobble, and should be spotted when the wheel alignment is checked. Another giveaway is the engine can look central in the frame, as Hans says, it is offset to allow a drive system to be connected to the rear wheel whilst keeping it all neat and tidy. 

Unless the rear loop has had a knock, or been straightened, the tyre should be exactly in the middle, as the rear loop is aligned on the frame which is built using the headstock as a datum.  

After doing all this, make sure your tyre fitter knows how to fit a tyre, despite their attitudes, nearly all don't or don't bother checking. The radial markers or start of tyre wall from the bead should be concentric to the rim on the side it is fitted, most get this right, but they tend to fail get the same distance or radial markers present at the same distance on the opposite side, ie you should have the same amount of concentric bead engaged with the rim on both sides. Just because in is fitted concentric on both sides does not mean it is fitted correctly, strangely many MOT inspectors will let this pass.  

So when you look at all the pieces of the puzzle and the tolerances along the way, you can now see that to get the rear wheel to follow the front was most probably more luck than judgement in the day, OK for road use, but there are many things can be checked to get it better.  

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Hi Maurice -

I might suggest you try the following.

Remove front wheel , spindle and fender so that each fork leg can act independently.

Remove fork top nuts

Loosen pinch bolts in lower yoke - be carful that fork legs don't drop out - you may need to block them or have assistance.

set yoke spindle nut just snug - no slack but lower yoke free to rotate on spindle so that it does not influence the seating of the stanchions in the top yoke .

Draw stanchions into the tapers in top yoke - I am including a photo of the tool used for this . If you can't buy or borrow one you may be able to do it  with the top nuts and a spacer of some sort - the damper rod may interfere though .

Insert spindle fully into both sliders- be certain that larger diameter end is seated home - but do not put spindle nut on - the purpose of this is to align the lower end of the forks but not draw them together.

tighten yoke spindle nut but do not bind steering

tighten pinch bolts on lower yoke.

add fork oil if needed and install fork top nuts

install fender and wheel

If this does not set things straight I would check rim offsets - you may also benefit by starting a thread specific to this - I certainly don't mind you doing it here but you will likely get more responses with a heading that states the issue.

Good luck and be sure to let us know if this helped.

RichardPuller

Thanks Richard I will take this all on board and have a good look when I get some time and I will get back to how things go...so Thanks again I wish you lived near to me as I have had this problem since I got the Bike two years ago.

Maurice

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Well if you go to the western most point in Portugal and look due West across 3 thousand miles of Atlantic Ocean and see a little sandy beach on the coast of New Jersey I'll stand up and give you a wave !

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I'm confused (nothing new here) but it doesn't make sense that the front wheel and the rear wheel were designed and made out of  alignment.

I wouldn't think that the bike was designed with the wheels offset at all even if they are parallel to each other.

Perhaps whoever has the original drawings can fill us in on this.........

Mike 

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Hi Mike - If it is the term offset that is confusing you , in the case of wheel building it refers to the distance from one face of the rim to a corresponding point on the hub on the same side - forgive me if I am telling you something you are aware off but not all wheels have their rims centered axialy over their hubs. It does not refer to the relationship of the front wheel to the rear wheel in terms of track . However ,  if one wheel or both are built incorrectly regarding hub to rim offset then they will indeed be offset to each other and , as you have noted ,  would make for some interesting handling! Hope this helps .

If I had some original drawings it might be suicidal to publicize that in the current atmosphere.......

Richard

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Thanks for the note Richard.

Mike

Maurice, see my reply above. Devon wheel Co told me that the offset on a mk 3 front wheel is so much that the spokes are near vertical. Even with slightly odd offset I don't know why you feel like you are not steering straight. Not being funny  but are your handlebars straight. (you said that it's been like that since you had it). It's a faff but take them off and lay them upside down on a really flat surface like kitchen worktop and see if they rock side to side . Just a thought . 

In reply to by hans_taylor

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Hi Hans

Thanks yes that was my first port of call was the handle bars, But Literally you can see that it is the top yoke that looks like it is turned to the right when you are riding the Bike I have tried undoing the pinch bolts and with the front wheel between my legs turning the handle bars to the left and when I think they are straight do the pinch bolts up then go out for a ride and again the yoke looks like it is turning to the right to make the bike to go Straight..... well hacked off as I can`t seem to find the problem :-( 

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Just been down the workshop and taken the following Numbers off the back and front wheels of the MK3 if this mean anything to someone in the know.

They are Devon wheel Co. Both back and front have the same Numbers on the Rims

DRC WM2 1.85 x 19 0507 

Hi Maurice, I think that everyone else has given you as much advice as there is out there about aligning the forks , so all I can add is find someone else in your area with a Mk3 and compare parts. Failing that, have the front end right out and check squareness of all parts. Many years ago I rode around with a bent frame for ages after an accident, which I only found after an engine rebuild. Had your bike ever been crashed ...who knows ?

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Drop a line through the headstock tube, this should be the exact centreline of the rims. It sounds very much like a bent frame if the wheels are correct. If it is the frame tube behind the gearbox wiil also need checking for cracks, though far from any impact point, it seems to give up there. 

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It’s possible you have a bent bottom yoke. I had the same problem with the bike feeling twisted and pulling to one side hands off. I tried everything and eventually laid a 3 or 4” alloy bar across the fork stanchions below the yoke. The bar rocked as it was only contacting at 3 points indicating that the forks were twisted. As the stanchions were new it turned out to be the bottom yoke. A new yoke and normal service resumed. - good luck! 

Well I have tried what Ashley said to run a plumb line through the head stock and it should line up with the centre of the wheel rim... well I hope it is good news in respect of the frame as indeed it do line up with the centre of the wheel. so the next thing to find is a bottom Yoke anyone out there in our lovely NOC land have got a MK3 bottom Yoke that is Not bent Please ?

 

Maurice

 


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