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On the road again....

Submitted by ian_soady on Mon, 25/02/2019
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I took the Norton out for its first proper ride (well actually only 35 miles) yesterday. It was gorgeous crackling through the lanes with the exhaust note bouncing off the trees. Got up to a respectable 65 with plenty more in hand - in fact up to 50 or so it seems as quick as the Guzzi V50. The plunger suspension works much better than I'd feared although a very bumpy bend did seem to tie it in knots to some extent, and the front brake has yet to bed in properly - not helped by an oval drum.

Upward gear changes were very good; down from 4th to 3rd lovely but down to 2nd (and even worse 1st) were a bit clunky. It may just be me needing to get used to the box although I always thought my Commando, with an internally very similar item, was the best gearbox I ever had. The clutch is freeing nicely (I can find neutral at a standstill) and not slipping at all.

I felt quite tired when I returned but all in all very successful and I look to using it a lot this year.

Submitted by george_phillips on Wed, 27/02/2019

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The fact that you get her into neutral at a standstill is impressive, Ian.

There's hope for the rest of us yet!

George

Submitted by paul_standeven on Wed, 27/02/2019

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I think your bike is a plunger ES2 - is the gearbox a vertical or horizontal?  Bear it in mind that the gearbox is quite wide ratio (first gear is 3:1), and you have heavy flywheels, so you do have to rev the motor up to help the gear meshing, much more so than with a medium-close box (first gear is 2.5:1) and 'lighter' (everything is relative!) flywheels  and much revvier engine of a Commando.  It's possible that this is just a matter of getting used to a slower rhythm in gearshifting.

Having taken that on board, you may have some faults in the gearbox.   If it's a vertical box, the first thing I would look at is the external link between the positive stop mechanism and the cam plate sector.  They wear badly, and the lost movement spoils the gearshift.  You may be able to drill out the holes in the arms and clevises and fit a larger pin.  A really nice solution is a link with rose joints....  The bushings for the positive stop mechanism in the cases wear, particularly the outer cover where the gear lever shaft exits, resulting in a lever which wobbles about, and causes lots of lost motion.  Have you tested the amount of mainshaft end float?  If it's too much, that can also spoil gearshifting.

Paul

Submitted by ian_soady on Wed, 27/02/2019

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It's a laydown box so no problems with linkages - in fact one reason I went for this year was the combination of plunger suspension and laydown box. I've had the upright boxes before and the other thing I don't like about them is the long lever travel and the need to lift your foot off the footrest - getting more difficult as my joints age!

I rebuilt the gearbox and fitted new bronze thrust washer and roller retainer - ended up with minimal end float on the mainshaft which I remember from my younger days was essential.

As you say, I think I just need to get used to it. Third to top and vice versa are as smooth as butter, but of course their ratios are quite close. And the second to third change of course is moving 2 sets of gears at once. I've been out again today and found if I wait till I'm nearly stopped before selecting first it's much better. And judicious use of the advance - retard helps!

I attach a couple of photos - I'm sure I had a tail light when I set off! The dynamo is awaiting brushes from Tony Cooper hence is on the bench.

Attachments
shakedown01.jpg
shakedown02.jpg
shakedown03.jpg

Submitted by richard_tool on Wed, 27/02/2019

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Well done Ian - I wish you many happy and safe miles . 

 I would love to bring mine across the pond and go for a spin - once you gentlemen (and ladies ) learn to ride on the proper side of the road !

Submitted by paul_standeven on Thu, 07/03/2019

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I improved the gearshift of my horizontal box by getting the positive stop ratchet pawls built up.  They are a bit longer, so there is less free movement of the shift lever before the ratchet starts to bite, and shifting begins.  I didn't measure how much, just got them built up with 'wear braze' and filed them back to a suitable profile.  I do like the result so far

Paul

Submitted by robert_tuck on Fri, 08/03/2019

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Hi George, You measure the clearance between roller and tracks with a feeler gauge ,any more than 2 thou (Ifound 31/2 to 4) and you have room for 1thou O/S rollers ,which will take out 2 thou overall (I thou each side) ,Bit fiddly to fit ,bought on  Internet from a bearing co . Think I bought 50 so I can do the Atlas too. Was a well known mod for racers who had to push start a Manx and could not hack it with clutch drag. Have to strip the clutch to get access. Got into the idea when I bought a brand new race plate which left me with slacker clearance than my 58 year old one! So what  help are  improved manufacturing methods.?.

 


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