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alternator light

Submitted by stephen_campbell on Saturday, 21 April, 2018 - 01:00
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good day people just a little help please, after my 750 roadster project came to a grinding halt due cancer ive managed to get fit enough to get her going again(she sat all winter in shed) ,just passed mot yesterday !! but the alternator light now doesnt come on ??i have an orig norton manual and wiring diagram shows different colour codes, battery charges 14.4 v engine running, seems a little high ?? what gives the light its signal please i know this maybe a daft question to some of you but its been a rather long time since i worked on this sort of system, anyway any help much appreciated rgds steve one other im only getting 110 psi on compression test hoping it will improve after a few runs ??? is that just to optimistic ???

Submitted by john_holmes on Saturday, 21 April, 2018 - 01:01

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14.4V charging is fine, the assimulator for the red light which comes on before you start the bike and then goes out unless the battery is not being charged is failure prone, replace it with a modern alternative but check the bulb first. On compression tests if the engine runs well then its the difference between the cylinders that is more important than the actual figures, you want less than 10% difference. The test is best done with a warm engine, throttle wide open and a series of kicks until it goes no higher.

Submitted by stephen_campbell on Monday, 23 April, 2018 - 01:00

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

14.4V charging is fine, the assimulator for the red light which comes on before you start the bike and then goes out unless the battery is not being charged is failure prone, replace it with a modern alternative but check the bulb first. On compression tests if the engine runs well then its the difference between the cylinders that is more important than the actual figures, you want less than 10% difference. The test is best done with a warm engine, throttle wide open and a series of kicks until it goes no higher.

thank you as for compression test thats what i did , first after waking her up was 85 both sides but after a run on the stand increased to 110 so i should be ok with that ?? heard some saying 145 ?? as for assimulator unit where would i get a modern one ?? and thanks

Submitted by john_holmes on Monday, 23 April, 2018 - 01:03

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If you get a compression test that causes you concern then the next step is a leakdown test, you apply air pressure to the pistons at BDC (not TDC as it will turn the engine over) and listen for where air is leaking from. Your figure is a bit low but if the engine has not been run for a long time then give it time to improve, some more rides are in order and if it runs well that tells you something anyway.

Submitted by stephen_campbell on Monday, 23 April, 2018 - 01:04

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Previously john_holmes wrote:

If you get a compression test that causes you concern then the next step is a leakdown test, you apply air pressure to the pistons at BDC (not TDC as it will turn the engine over) and listen for where air is leaking from. Your figure is a bit low but if the engine has not been run for a long time then give it time to improve, some more rides are in order and if it runs well that tells you something anyway.

thanks im hoping as i have had a cancer issue , ive not been able to touch her for almost a year and and was in a collection prior ,im hoping that 110 psi will improve with use thanks again guys

Submitted by alan_sessions on Monday, 23 April, 2018 - 01:05

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When doing a compression test, you must have the throttle open at all times otherwise you get low readings

 



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