I've replaced the drive side seal. I'm thinking of replacing the clutch seal while the inner case is off. Will this seal pull out without removing the small rear plate which appears to be holding it in place? The old seal looks ok, if the rear plate has to be removed I might leave the seal in place.
Had a look for a gasket for the rear of the primary inner case. Cannot see any for sale online, anyone know who sells them.?
I have never seen a gasket for the inner primary chain case. I used Loctite 5699 silicone, a grey premium silicone sealant that does a good job. For that matter I use it for the outer primary chain case as well because I have had to remove the chain case so may times to, for example, tighten the chain adjuster, time the engine using a strobe when fitting an electronic ignition, adjust the clutch springs, etc. etc...!!
By the 'clutch seal', do you mean the one in the back of the primary chain case or the one behind the final drive sprocket? The primary chain case one just pushes out. The one behind the sprocket needs a pick to prise it out. In my opinion, it is worth renewing both of them while you have the rear chain case off. The cost only a few pounds and the NOC shop should have them in stock.
Ive ordered both seals from the spares shop. I drilled two holes in the crankshaft seal and inserted self tappers, came off easy with a pair of pliers. I was not sure how the clutch seal came out, I thought the rear plate held it in, good that it comes out easy. There was a paper gasket behind the inner case which I cleaned off. Ive ordered some gasket paper so I might make one.
Good news about the seals. The gasket should be easy enough to make but you might want some gasket paste or silicone to keep it in place on assembly.
Yes it’s easy to change the clutch side seals, both on the later and earlier engines, however there’s not much meat for them to bit onto so I helped them with some loctite!
The clutch/primary chain case seal on mine was very loose in the casing. I agree that the seal might need some help to stay in place. It is also not very precisely located as there is no apparent 'lip' in the casing. I decided to leave mine flush with the outside of the casing for no good reason other than it looked right!
I have always found this gasket included in a full gasket set for Jubilee or Navigator.
The same paper gasket is used for all Jubilee, Navigator and Electra.
I've never seen the gasket sold separately.
Full gasket sets are often on *Bay, and are also available from Norton specialists and the NOC website.
Might save you a lot of bother if you don't have fresh gaskets for other joints.
Your early Jubilee will need the unique Jubilee head gaskets, cylinder base, and inlet manifold gaskets, not common with Navigator. So if you go the full gasket set route, go for a Jubilee set.
If the seal doesn't have an abutment shoulder I check that the housing is deep enough to tap the seal into a different position so that the sealing lip doesn't coincide with the slight wear on the shaft. It is usually that wear which causes the leakage in the first place. First check that there isn't any corrosion or damage on the new portion of shaft.
If the seal runs against a spacer on the shaft it can usually be reversed to do a similar fix. either way make sure the seal is lubricated when fitted.
Managed to remove the clutch seal in the inner case. Was this seal factory bonded in place, bit of a job removing/scraping loose.
Hi John, - you asked " Was this seal factory bonded in place, bit of a job removing/scraping loose."
In truth, I dont know the answer - but it made sense to do so. The original seal (PNo 22474) was only half the depth of a conventional seal - so the metal plate behind (& glueing it in place) seems logical.
It appears to be the same Part Number for ES2 Drive Side oil seal - RGM list it at £4.90++