Turning off the ignition does not stop the engine

Got to say, I'm lost with this. A 1952ES2 has no ignition to 'turn off'. It is magneto fired, and the way to stop the engine is by lifting the exhaust valve with the lever on the handle bar!

Previously Paul Knapp wrote:

Got to say, I'm lost with this. A 1952ES2 has no ignition to 'turn off'. It is magneto fired, and the way to stop the engine is by lifting the exhaust valve with the lever on the handle bar!

I'm glad I'm not the only one getting confused!

It is sometimes possible to fit a kill switch or 'ignition' switch to a mag, but it wont be origonal.

Previously andy_marks wrote:

Previously Paul Knapp wrote:

Got to say, I'm lost with this. A 1952ES2 has no ignition to 'turn off'. It is magneto fired, and the way to stop the engine is by lifting the exhaust valve with the lever on the handle bar!

I'm glad I'm not the only one getting confused!

It is sometimes possible to fit a kill switch or 'ignition' switch to a mag, but it wont be origonal.

Hi

these bikes never had an on-off switch or key, kick it over and it will go...if you are lucky (grin)

my 1951 ES2 has three positions on the switch...basically 1) on 2)on parking light and tail light and 3) furthest to the clockwise, is headlight and taillight on

only way to shut it downis to hit the decompressor lever.

A kill switch would be an added safety but riders in 1950 considered a watch cap as adequate protection for the noggin.

Grant in Toronto

Previously david_bell1 wrote:

Thanks for all the responses guys. Been away a few days so did not have chance to check the thread.

What I am calling the igniton is just the switch on the light. It has what would look to be an off position and I had assumed turning it on one click turned the ignition on. Turning the switch the next click turns the lights on. It's sounding like it actually has nothing to do with the ignition though what turning it the first click actually does who knows. It sounds like from Grant's response it should be parking light/tail light but I don't think it does anything on mine.

I have only had the bike on the road a couple of times since I got it due to it needing a few bits sorting out before I can properly use it so I am still fairly clueless about the day to day riding Anyway it sounds like pulling the decompressor is the correct method so that's good to know.

Your switch, as you have now discovered, is purely for the lights. 1st click should turn on pilot light in headlamp (has this blown?) speedo, and rear light. 2nd click turns off pilot light, and turns on main headlamp bulb. If you want a "Kill" switch you will probably be able to find a magneto end cap for a twin, at an auto-jumble. A single wire from this to a switch, or button, will cut out the mag.

Previously david_bell1 wrote:

Thanks for all the responses guys. Been away a few days so did not have chance to check the thread.

What I am calling the igniton is just the switch on the light. It has what would look to be an off position and I had assumed turning it on one click turned the ignition on. Turning the switch the next click turns the lights on. It's sounding like it actually has nothing to do with the ignition though what turning it the first click actually does who knows. It sounds like from Grant's response it should be parking light/tail light but I don't think it does anything on mine.

I have only had the bike on the road a couple of times since I got it due to it needing a few bits sorting out before I can properly use it so I am still fairly clueless about the day to day riding Anyway it sounds like pulling the decompressor is the correct method so that's good to know.

Yes...first postion is also "on"

I am no expert but I assume that even though the magneto is doing the work when you kick start it, you should not have the head light on

I know that with any of my bikes with coil ignition that if I have a signal light or any electrical draw happening, it seems to take a lot more effort to start the bike. So I assume one starts in the first or left hand position. My own current issue is that much of the time the decompressor seems to get stuck on so the bike obvously won't start. Got to reach up under and flick it closed...bit of a learning curve for me right now.

Goodl luck

Grant

Hello Grant, if the de-comp lever stays in the valveopen position, the return spring fitted over the cable between the lever and the adjuster (on the rocker box)may be missing! It is of the same shape as a garden 'secuter' spring. Look in your parts book, it is clearly shown. If you don't have a parts book, the NOC shopwill probably have one.

Paul.

Previously Paul Knapp wrote:

Hello Grant, if the de-comp lever stays in the valveopen position, the return spring fitted over the cable between the lever and the adjuster (on the rocker box)may be missing! It is of the same shape as a garden 'secuter' spring. Look in your parts book, it is clearly shown. If you don't have a parts book, the NOC shopwill probably have one.

Paul.

THanks Paul. I'll investigate. I do have the 1950 era parts book. Could not function without it. I think the spring is fine as it only sticks on occasion. I'll have to get the tank off and see what the issue is.

Grant

Remove the small valve liftersecuring pin (just above the lifter shaft) and, with the exhaust valve fully open, remove the shaft and check for any burrs, also check that thesecuring pin isn't fouling in the pin groove on shaft.