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sump drain plug

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as my early Atlas engined commando has been standing for many years I intended to change all fluids as a matter of course, draining the oil tank revealed virtually none so maybe it has all gravitated to the sump,[ dunno if this is common in these engines] so I think I will remove the sump plug and drain this see what happens,

Haynes show a nice neat sump drain plug but the only thing I can see which resembles such is a massive great brass bolt at the rear of the crankcase, I have measured this and it is 1'5" across the flats, I do not have any spanner quite this large! so my questions-

is this the sump plug?

can I remove it with safety?

was it made so large to prevent it's removal by unauthorised persons?

If I can remove it maybe I will tap another smaller on in it's centre.

Kind regards

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Yes, it's the sump plug. The reason for it's size is that it incorporates an oil filter. Size is 7/8" Whit.

Yes you shall remove it and dismantle the filter, clean it with petrol and examine it for metal particles. Take care that the circlip is properly home in its recess.

Before removing, place a tray under it!

There are plugs with a small bolt available, but Norton recommended cleaning except for roadside oil changes.

Mike

P.s I use a 38mm spanner, passable fit.

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Attachment shows a set of similar cases, inverted and with the drain plug in a nice easy to get at position. No such luck when mounted in the bike. You will find the mainstand feet get in the way of most rectangular trays when trying to drain the old oil. I use a an old, round plastic, mixing bowl with a 4 pint capacity as this fits under the sump plug better. From experience I would suggest the wearing of plastic gloves.

Attachments 750-crankcases-jpg
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thanks guys for your replies, just for this small query it was worth joining the club, you learn something every day, I read of the oil filter but had no idea where it was, we did fit a replacable element filter in the return line when it was rebuilt sooooo many years ago, I think I rode the bike once all those yrs ago so I am looking forward to perhaps using it a little more. problem is G80CS, Goldie and a few others get in the way. Kind regards

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A bit of respect for the old ladies is not uncommon. Nothing wrong with asking a question instead of making a big mistake. Richard might not be aware of the wealth of manuals etc. available.

I walked respectfully around my Manx for more than a year before starting to prepare it. Sadly on them very little seems to be written. Everything seems to be oral tradition.

Mike

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I think you may have misunderstood my light hearted comment, Mikael. I meant it would be nice to have the problem of owning a G80CS and a Goldie. I meant no disrespect, far be it for me to look down on people with limited technical ability. I fall into that category myself. Kind regards............Chris

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I built the G80 from a box of all different bits, the goldie I had to convert from head down arse up as aging bodies don't like that much, well mine didn't. I have a limited amount of ability , couple of lathes and a mill, and if I don't know I ask.

So Chris I took your comment in the nature it was intended, [won't mention the MSS, A7SS '61 Bonneville 90s etc]

Anyway I digress, just bought a 38mm spanner but it has now crossed my mind will I get the thing out as a frame cross member as well as the stand obstructs it, not worried about the stand I can retract that and support the bike on stands on the bench but the cross member?

kind regards

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From memory, 7/8 Whit is the same as the engine sprocket nut. Useful to have the right one for that....

I fitted a Commando oil filter plate behind the gearbox, so the oil gets properly filtered. But the sump filter is the oil drain, and first warning of metal in the oil. You can't see inside the cartridge oil filters....

Paul

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thanks Paul. yes we fitted an aftermarket cartridge type in the same place when it was built 20 plus yrs ago, but by the 'lord 'arry' replacing the carbs with new ones again probably purchased 15/18 yrs ago, what a palarva?, in the end I had to remove one of the manifolds to get at the inner nut for the n ew carb flange then replace the manifold with the 2nd new carb attached, having of course had to butcher at both ends an allen key to fit the retaining cap heads. again dunno if these are original fitments but what an awkward job why didn't they splay the head?

Mind you when hunting for the new carbs I also found a brand new pair of peashooters still boxed and a new fishtail for the Velo, as Ed will say 'result

Kind regards'

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Norton never changed anything if they could get away with it. I cite the lower rear engine plate bolt as an example. On the iron-lug frames, it goes through the rear of the cast iron shoe accepting the bottom of the crank case. On a featherbed, it's in line with the frame tubes, and means that you have to take the crank cases out with the gearbox, never one or the other. The bikes are just hard to work on for this reason.

If your engine is an early Atlas, does that mean it had the Monobloc 389 and mirror image 689 right carb? I am interested to know how long they were fitted, as in fact I'm after a pair of rebuildable ones

Paul

Previously richard_woolnough wrote:

thanks Paul. by the 'lord 'arry' replacing the carbs with new ones again probably purchased 15/18 yrs ago, what a palarva?,

Mind you when hunting for the new carbs I also found a brand new pair of peashooters still boxed and a new fishtail for the Velo, as Ed will say 'result

Kind regards'

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sorry I really don't know what the original carbs would have been I bought the machine and really only reimbursed the vendor what the engine had cost to rebuild, the other bits came with it, the carbs were in a plastic box with many other pieces and my chum at the time, who was quite up with commando's having raced them, built it, he would have used what was in the box together with any other spares he had in the shed so to speak.

The frame had no I/D plate but there was a V5 so armed with this Norvil made me a plate; but who knows so many yrs ago!

The vendor had been a part time bike breaker so whatever was in the box could be from anywhere/machine. I do still have a few bits still in the original box. Kind regards

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'nother question chaps, intending to replace the add on oil filter canister I attempted to release it from the mounting, not on your life! so it was removed completley and placed in the vice with the two mounting bolts holding it secure and after great cussing etc and a lot of effort it finally gave in, and I have a specialist tool for just such removal!

so, it bears the legend Wipac CA 111 are these available do you know from the club or elsewhere?, I'm pretty sure they were a Citroen 2CV fitment. to be fair I havn't asked at my local factors.

kind regards

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From the tech area, x ref to other filters, and yes it is a 2CV filter

Crosland 631 or 673Mann W7 12/70Jones Filtration 264Fram PH 2839Simca 29932 MUnipart GFE 212AC 5 WNorton 063371Fram PH2864GUD Z102Crosland 673Parflux LS 131Mann W712/9AC X4Purolator FC601 or PC203Beck-Arnley 041-1241AC SW9 (50% longer than X4)
  • Champion H101
  • Wipac CA101
  • Delco X5
  • TJ FB2094

and Purolator L17601

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thank you John, should have asked at my local factors first, but sometimes we try to run before we can walk. my local factors produced a WIX WL.7101 as a direct replacement so sorry for any inconvenience caused,Kind Regards

 


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