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Steering head bearing removal.

Submitted by leslie,peter_howard on Fri, 28/01/2011
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Heavy Twins

Hi chaps, although the bike I'm refering to is a Model 7, I think the steering head bearings are the same for the singles with the pre-featherbed frames.

I'm trying to knock out both top and bottom head races. I've had a quick go at it withbut with no result thus far, so before I engage second gear in my attempts I'd like to ask if any of you could give me some tips to achieve their removal.

Fristly, I'd like to know how tight are they and do they usually require massive amounts of force to get them to move or not? This will help me if I have to devise and manufacture a special tool for their removal. The problem is that so very little of the inner edge of the race is exposed and difficult to get a purchase on, but after removing anyone of them the second one should be able to be hit with a full diameter drift. The top one is flush with the front lug so this looks like the bestone to remove first., and then knock the bottom one out which is a little way up inside the head lug.

Is it best to heat the steering head? I'd rather not do this as I would like to replace the bearings after the frame is powder coated. Having told you the reasonthat I'm removing them, I guess I could leave them in situ and mask them off for the blast cleaning and coating?I don't really need replacements.

I would very much appreciate any help, advise or suggestions from anyone who has had a go at this job. very many thanks in advance.

Much obliged. Les H

Submitted by robert_gittins on Fri, 28/01/2011

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Previously wrote:

Hi chaps, although the bike I'm refering to is a Model 7, I think the steering head bearings are the same for the singles with the pre-featherbed frames.

I'm trying to knock out both top and bottom head races. I've had a quick go at it withbut with no result thus far, so before I engage second gear in my attempts I'd like to ask if any of you could give me some tips to achieve their removal.

Fristly, I'd like to know how tight are they and do they usually require massive amounts of force to get them to move or not? This will help me if I have to devise and manufacture a special tool for their removal. The problem is that so very little of the inner edge of the race is exposed and difficult to get a purchase on, but after removing anyone of them the second one should be able to be hit with a full diameter drift. The top one is flush with the front lug so this looks like the bestone to remove first., and then knock the bottom one out which is a little way up inside the head lug.

Is it best to heat the steering head? I'd rather not do this as I would like to replace the bearings after the frame is powder coated. Having told you the reasonthat I'm removing them, I guess I could leave them in situ and mask them off for the blast cleaning and coating?I don't really need replacements.

I would very much appreciate any help, advise or suggestions from anyone who has had a go at this job. very many thanks in advance.

Much obliged. Les H

Hi Les,

The best I can do is quote from P L Garratt's mainenance book. Examine headraces and balls (seventeen per race). Replace if necessary. Races are pressed into their housings and may be readily knocked out for removal. Note that the races fitted in the frame embody a small hole to allow the entry of grease.

Sounds easy doesn't it?, Rob.

Submitted by leslie,peter_howard on Fri, 28/01/2011

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Hi Rob. Yeah, ...just knock out the races....I bet Mr Garratt has never tried it himself..ho-ho.

The inner edges only just overlap andany drift slips off the side when you work through the the hole of the other race, apart from not wanting to tilt the race whendrifting it out.

I,ve checked with the powder coater and he said I would not be able to shield them with mdf discs as they will burn in the oven, so I need to get some steel plates made up or continue to remove the races.

I have a few ideas for creating different styles of expanding drifts. I would like something to bare on the race on at least opposite sides to ensure the race moves squarely. As long as someone can ensure they are not too tight, I'll have another go by cautiously tapping them all the way round, but even that is not easy.

Regards

Les

Submitted by leslie,peter_howard on Fri, 28/01/2011

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Hooray. I've managed to knock them out, So thanks again for your reply Rob. Just getting the assurance that they should not be too difficult made it an easier job.

The amount of times I have started a job and it defies the normal expected effort, leaving me with a job that takes 100x timeslonger and a the feeling that "if only I'd left it alone."

Anyway, with Mr Garrats use of the words "readily knocked out" I made another attempt.Ground the drift's end to a precision sharp edge and set about it, tapping with the hammer in one hand and pinching it tightly to butt up against the inner edge of the race with the thumb of the other. 'Twas shear relief when it started moving and eventuallypopped out.

With a large socket and 1/2" extension bar that could now be slipped down thehead race column, but just catchingthe bottom race, I could hammer with some force (my applogies to the socket and bar) and squarely drift out the bottomrace...job done.

However It struck me once they were out that I will still need to make up some masking discs to keep out the powder coat...Oh well!

Les

Submitted by david_evans on Fri, 28/01/2011

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One of the problems you need to be wary of is the tendency for the blasting process to remove metal from the bearing seating. Most powder coaters use grit blasting. You can get a thick aluminium tape called "speed tape" in the aircraft industry and it's well suited to masking from grit blasting but may need replacing before the powder coating process. I would have thought the powder coater could supply something like this. Many just want a quick turn round without any preparation, not a problem if you're just doing garden gates and the like. Redditch Shotblasting do a good service if they are anywhere near you and are bike friendly. Another option is to use two tin lids or jam jar lids with a bit of studding through the middle.

Submitted by leslie,peter_howard on Fri, 28/01/2011

Permalink

Previously wrote:

One of the problems you need to be wary of is the tendency for the blasting process to remove metal from the bearing seating. Most powder coaters use grit blasting. You can get a thick aluminium tape called "speed tape" in the aircraft industry and it's well suited to masking from grit blasting but may need replacing before the powder coating process. I would have thought the powder coater could supply something like this. Many just want a quick turn round without any preparation, not a problem if you're just doing garden gates and the like. Redditch Shotblasting do a good service if they are anywhere near you and are bike friendly. Another option is to use two tin lids or jam jar lids with a bit of studding through the middle.

Hi David. thanks for the reply. I'll look out for the tape it could be very useful. The jam jar lids are a good idea, and I have some M6 studding so I'll be able to keep the blasting and paint out of the cups.

I live in East/Mid devon, and I'm toldthat 1st choice Finishes near exeter jcn 29 are very good, it's not too far from me either.

Best regards

Les

Submitted by albert_sheean on Sun, 30/01/2011

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Hello Les,

I would suggest putting little plugs in any and all threaded holes, or be prepared to run a tap through them after, if not threaded, running a drill bit through the holes will ensure easy entry of whatever fastener went in the hole to begin with, some years ago I powder coated the frame and all mounting brackets for my SR 500 Yamabanger, the thread cleaning was most enjoyable, if you like that sort of thing, hope this saves you a bit of grief.

Regards,

Albert .

P.S. You could try just screwing in some old bolts that you don't care about, finger tight should do it.

 


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