All,
I have a 1956 ES2 with the round plastic tank badges.
I bought some new a few years ago and both have cracked in different places.
I have the rubber backing between the badge and tank and loctited the screws in not too tight.
Has anyone ever filled the back of a new badge with body filler or epoxy to make these things last longer?
Any other suggestions?
Don Anson
Melbourne
Round tank badges
Never had one crack. My 57 Model 50 has the AMC chrome plates, without indents as the AMC badges were smaller, so I had to drill another hole.
I cut a thinner circle of rubber to take out the curve and looks as original Norton.
No filler on mine. That said, these were original badges, not so sure that the modern replicas are as tough.
- Log in to post comments
Round Tank Badges
For what it is worth... with this latest set (they are getting pricy and the plastic is different from the originals) I heat formed the badges and then filled the backs with JB Weld Marine epoxy.
- Log in to post comments
How did you hear it
Mark,
I'll give the JBWeld a go.
How did you hear the plastic?
- Log in to post comments
Round Tank Badge
Procedure: Tank off bike, dry, and cap open. Mount badge, no rubber backing. Run in screws with flat washers until they lightly bottom on the badge. I use a heat gun to warm the badge slowly and allow to cool. I suggest coming up to an effective temperature slowly by trial. Incrementally retighten the screws and reheat until the badge forms to the tank. This is not a quick fix but seems to be effective. I did mine over a winter.
- Log in to post comments
