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Rear brake lever for 1946 Model 18

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I believe the arm length (pivot to the operating rod) on my bike is too short as I dont have clearence between the operating rod and the rear footpegs. The bar fouls slightly on the rod. Does anyone have a model 18 they can advise me of the correct rear brake lever possibly with a photo. Better still does anyone have the right lever they are willing to sell?

Thank you

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Hi Carl

I have attached a picture from my 38 ES2 I am restoring. I hope it helps.I had a similar problem where the rod fouled the stud for the rear mugaurd stay. With new pattern shoes fitted which were close fitting, the wheel spindle had to be quite forward within the adjustment slots. The length of the brake torque arm is fixed so the position of the brake arm changes as the wheel is moved within the wheel adjustment slots.I was surprised by how much! I believe that thebrake arm and cams did not change on the rigid frame models.

Best regards Colin

Attachments es2-rear-brake-jpg
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This is the same view as Colin shows - my 1937 more or less unrestored 16H on the left and Colin's ES2 on the right.Pretty much the same but Colin has a nice looking wing adjuster nut - (can anyone tell me where to find one, please? Somebody pinched mine years ago) - and I have the nice little steel half circle within the end of the arm below the nut, easy to find - bought 'new old spares' last year off the shelf at Russell Motors.Attachments back-brakes-jpg
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Hi Carl,

I may be able to help you I have a 1946 model 18 and will send a photo on in the next few days

Philip Peat

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Previously carl_sanders wrote:

I believe the arm length (pivot to the operating rod) on my bike is too short as I dont have clearence between the operating rod and the rear footpegs. The bar fouls slightly on the rod. Does anyone have a model 18 they can advise me of the correct rear brake lever possibly with a photo. Better still does anyone have the right lever they are willing to sell?

Thank you

Hope the photo attached helps the steel rule is 12 inches long

mail me if you need more,best of luck,Philip

Attachments image-jpg
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Carl, as far as I'm aware, the rigid sv / ohv models of this era all used the same pedal (with the exception of WD which is longer).

The plunger model lever is very different. It might be worth a photo to see what you have, including the casting mark on the back.

The distance between centres of the operating arm should be 3,1/2" (measured with a rule).

I think that I might have a spare civilian pedal somewhere in the bottom of the 'It'll come in handy one day' box but it would make sense first to identify what you actually have.

A trader once told me (and it seems to be correct) that original Norton pedals 'always' have a cross-hatch pattern on and never just ridges. I haven't found any post-vintage exceptions to this rule.

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Well you learn something everyday, for a few years i've had a wingnut and trunion. Have just rushed out to the garage and remedied that, phew. Wingnut looks tidier with the ears vertical.

 


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