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Re-commissioning a 1927 16H - Castrol R issue?

Submitted by simon_amos on Sun, 07/09/2014
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After a 2 year lay-up of my 1927 16H it's time to get herout on the road again.

Now I read somewhere that Castrol R "glazes" whennot in use and I seem to think that I should have flushed through the systemprior to the lay-up, but then I didn't realize that the bike was actually goingto be laid-up (if you follow my meaning).

The engine has been turned over every few months and I amnot aware of anything feeling different, but is there something I should do aspart of the re-commissioning?

Waiting with bated breath ...

Ian

PS.

As the bike has a tendency to wet sump, the oil drain plug was removed when it was last used, so no standing oil in the crankcase ... if that makes any difference.

Submitted by neil_wyatt on Sun, 07/09/2014

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Ian, I'd be surprised if the advice is anything other than to take the motor apart and clean out all traces of castor oil. It does not mix with ordinary mineral or synthetic oil.

I only use a drop of R in my petrol tanks for the aroma, so I'm only going by what the racing men say. Best to wait for qualified advice, it may be that a flushing agent has been developed to save a strip down but I'm unaware of anything. Looking forward to hearing what the experts think.

Submitted by simon_amos on Sun, 07/09/2014

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Thanks for that Neil.As I intend to continue to use Castrol R for the time being (I have a few gallons in stock) I was rather hoping that an engine strip down could be avoided. If on the other hand it is necessary in order to remove any glaze, then I think that in order to avoid such problems again I'd consider migrating to a modern oil.IanPreviously neil_wyatt wrote:

Ian, I'd be surprised if the advice is anything other than to take the motor apart and clean out all traces of castor oil. It does not mix with ordinary mineral or synthetic oil.

I only use a drop of R in my petrol tanks for the aroma, so I'm only going by what the racing men say. Best to wait for qualified advice, it may be that a flushing agent has been developed to save a strip down but I'm unaware of anything. Looking forward to hearing what the experts think.

Submitted by john_davies on Sun, 07/09/2014

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I run one of my race bikes on Castrol R, a 500 BSA single. It has been left standing for long periods but I've never had any such problems.

John

Submitted by simon_amos on Mon, 08/09/2014

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Having spent hours trolling the web, it strikes me thatthere is no definitive answer to my question.

I'd rather not have to strip down the engine if I don't haveto, but then I don't want to create any problems either ... such dilemmas !

I don't profess to be any sort of expert ... but the engineis very basic with relatively few moving parts and has a total loss oil system. The lubrication system itselfis equally as basic and my thoughts are that as long as the oil lines arerunning clear, the pump works, oil flows, piston slides freely and the bearingsrotate ... all should be OK.

Am I missing something?

Thanks

Ian

Submitted by gordon_johnston on Tue, 09/09/2014

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I am recommissioning a Rudge which had been running on R many years ago. Against all advice, I have had it running on Morris Classic 20-50. Heresy, but is seems to be quite happy. I see an eternity full of demons and pointy sticks. Other heretics have suggested a high detergent oil to speed the change from vegetable oil to mineral.

Submitted by simon_amos on Tue, 09/09/2014

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

I am recommissioning a Rudge which had been running on R many years ago. Against all advice, I have had it running on Morris Classic 20-50. Heresy, but is seems to be quite happy. I see an eternity full of demons and pointy sticks. Other heretics have suggested a high detergent oil to speed the change from vegetable oil to mineral.

I'm inclined to check over the oil pump and oil lines and start her up using the Castrol R I have left and closely monitor the engine while running. It appears that the "glazing issue" is not such an issue as it used to be.ThanksIan

Submitted by ian_macdougall on Tue, 09/09/2014

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Previously Gordon Johnston wrote:

I am recommissioning a Rudge which had been running on R many years ago. Against all advice, I have had it running on Morris Classic 20-50. Heresy, but is seems to be quite happy. I see an eternity full of demons and pointy sticks. Other heretics have suggested a high detergent oil to speed the change from vegetable oil to mineral.

I don't think Gordon needs to worry about eternity filled with demons & pointy sticks (well leastways not because of his views on oils!). I had considered changing my CS1 from Silkolene R40 to mineral and sought advice from Silkolene. They said that their version of R is compatible with mineral oils and that all you need to do is drain the R and refill with mineral oil. Use that first fill as a flushing oil, after a while do another oil change and by then there should be negligible quantities of R left in the system. Don't know if this advice applies to Castrol products. I subsequently stripped the engine (first time in my ownership so at least 5 years since last down) and was pleasantly surprised how clean it was internally - no gums, blocked oilways (apart from the usual exhaust valve feed) or other nasties. I am still using the R40.

Ian McD

 


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