Primary chaincase on 1947 ES2 and chain lube ???

According to PL. Garrett, Repair manager at Norton Motors Ltd. in the '60s, the oil should be a 20W oil.

What will be more entertaining will be keeping it in the chaincase. Several people have come up with suggestions ... many Nortons still mark their terratory!

Previously wrote:

I have recently acquired a 1947 ES2 where the previous owner has run the bike with the primary chaincase âdryâ and has used chain lube to overcome the problem of a leaking chaincase.

After a settling in period (the bike and me that is) I finally tracked down a very annoying rattle to the chaincase. Upon removing the cover I discovered the primary chain to be VERY slack, to the extent that it could touch both the top and bottom of the cover at the same time! So something is definitely not right. I will see how much slack I can take up, but would be surprised to achieve a satisfactory result.

Would I be correct in assuming that this excesive slack could be the result of running the chaincase dry?

I have read the various threads on the topic of leaking chain cases and the use of chain lube, but alas I am none the wiser.

Any advice would be most greatly appreciated.

Hello - The right way to keep a primary chaincase free from dripping oil is to strip off the riders foot rest, undo the big nut, take the outer chaincase off and see if it is straight inside and not buckled anywhere, then clean inside so there is no oil anywhere. Take off the rubber sealing band and clean it with washing up liquid and dry it off, clean the inner part where the rubber sealing band fits then put some silicon sealant on the inside edge of the inner chaincase and fit the rubber band over it - then let it dry by going for a cup of tea and a biscuit (rich tea are the best or a fig biscuit?) . When it's dry you need to apply lots of grease on the inside of the outer chain cover then push the outer chaincase over the inner one, fit the big nut and do it up until two threads are showing this is now ok. Now fit the riders foot rest . and pour a 1/4 of a pint of A.T.F oil in the cases (that's automatic transmission fluid the clear type?). Now your chaincase should not leak oil. yours ajd ride safe

In addition to following AJD's suggestion, I would consider replacing the primary chain, It's probably shot and not worth fooling with. Pre-cut primary chains are available from Armour's, RGM motors or Norvil. I also only hand tighten the big nut with a big socket, it doesn't need to be really tight, just tight enough to finish seating the outer chaincase (Its really to keep the outer cover on, more than anything else.) Using ATF will let you know if the leak is from the primary case or from the oil seal on engine's main shaft, the color will be a give away.

A P.S. to my earlier reply

Make sure the inner primary case is properly braced and the fasteners tight. It does no good to be scrupulous about preparing the sealing band only to have the inner primary give way when the outer cover is installed and all your efforts are wasted.

I remember reading an article in Roadholder in the 1990s by John Hudson on stopping primary chaincases leaking. It involved use of a hammer and blocks of wood if I remember. Searching for that article might be a good way to fix your problem. It worked on my Manxman.

Most Norton primaries leak because of over tightening of the big nut causing distortion of the case.

Ian,

Too much tension will damage bearings. Too little and the chain will jump sprockets. Therefore just enough slack so that thechaincannot jump the sprockets.

Hi.

My ES2 has the same set up.

I use silicon RTV gasket goo to get an oil tight seal. The only place I get a very slight weep is where the gearbox shaft goes through the chaincase but a small piece of carpet felt, neatly hidden away, lodged on the bottom mounting bracket takes care of this (until I strip it all down again).

One note of caution - when (if) you go down this route, leave the chaincase with the oil in it overnight to see whether it leaks. If it doesn't but then after a run it does 'leak' oil,look at thetimed breatherunder where the crankshaft exits the crank-case. This breaths out behind the chaincase and even on the later bikes with a crankshaft oil seal there is nothing to stopoil getting past the main bearings and out of the breather. Itdoes a pretty good impression of a chain-case leak!

My chaincase persistantly 'leaked' for years yet 'miraculously' never ran out of oil until I sussed this. Mine is now blocked off and a bigger breather is used at the other breather point (with the union, nut & tube)just above and to the rear of the main bearings.

This breather can also put out a bit of oil if the bike is used hard and mine now leads to a small tank hidden in the tool box under the seat (wideline ES2). A pipe with an Enfield 'duckbill' valve exits from this. Any oil collected in the tank makes its way back to the crankcases. I've used this set up succesfullyfor 5 years now.

As far as the chain goes - 1/2 to 3/4 inch whip. TIGHTEN THE CHAIN UP FIRST and then slacken it to get the required 'whip' and then turn the engine over to check there are no tight spots - there's usually one!

Cheers.

Ian.

Hi.

My ES2 has the same set up.

I use silicon RTV gasket goo to get an oil tight seal. The only place I get a very slight weep is where the gearbox shaft goes through the chaincase but a small piece of carpet felt, neatly hidden away, lodged on the bottom mounting bracket takes care of this (until I strip it all down again).

One note of caution - when (if) you go down this route, leave the chaincase with the oil in it overnight to see whether it leaks. If it doesn't but then after a run it does 'leak' oil,look at thetimed breatherunder where the crankshaft exits the crank-case. This breaths out behind the chaincase and even on the later bikes with a crankshaft oil seal there is nothing to stopoil getting past the main bearings and out of the breather. Itdoes a pretty good impression of a chain-case leak!

My chaincase persistantly 'leaked' for years yet 'miraculously' never ran out of oil until I sussed this. Mine is now blocked off and a bigger breather is used at the other breather point (with the union, nut & tube)just above and to the rear of the main bearings.

This breather can also put out a bit of oil if the bike is used hard and mine now leads to a small tank hidden in the tool box under the seat (wideline ES2). A pipe with an Enfield 'duckbill' valve exits from this. Any oil collected in the tank makes its way back to the crankcases. I've used this set up succesfullyfor 5 years now.

As far as the chain goes - 1/2 to 3/4 inch whip. TIGHTEN THE CHAIN UP FIRST and then slacken it to get the required 'whip' and then turn the engine over to check there are no tight spots - there's usually one!

Cheers.

Ian.