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Oil in Oil Bath

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I'm new to Nortons and have just bought a Model 50. Before I embark on the refurbishment work I want to ride it, which should give me a better idea of what needs attention. One of the challenges I face is sealing the primary chain case ! However, for the purposes of just riding a few assessment miles I wondered, if I oiled the chain with modern chain lube, whether or not it would be OK to ride with no oil in the chain case ? I guess my real concern is whether or not the clutch needs to run in oil ?

Also, for future reference, any tips on sealing the primary chain case so as there are no leaks, or is this an unrealistic objective ?

Mike Haworth

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I'm running my ES2 dry at the moment while I'm fiddling with it with no problems, as you say I've squirted the chain with chain lube. If you do a search you'll see lots of discussion on the subject, and advice how to get it oil tight.

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Hi Mike. Welcome to Nortons! What year is your Model 50? Can you post a picture or two?

The primary chaincase is indeed a challenge to get oil tight, but it is possible. Your best bet is to enter 'sealing primary chaincase' in the search box, and you should find what you need.

I wouldn't run too far without oil in there, as the clutch bearing will run dry. You ideally need 20w oil, not so easy to find. Once again a search of the site will bring up plenty of info, and options. Both these subjects have been discussed here frequently in the past!

I am sure you will get it sorted and enjoy your ownership of the bike.

Ian

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The clutch bearing only runs dry when you pull the clutch in, I grease this bearing up every few months and use chain lube on the chain.

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Hi MIkeIan is right - there is a lot of info on this site already about primary oil/tension/leakage. Like Dan I have a mid-fifties ES2 which I have run with the p/c cover off for short test runs. No apparent probs but only short runs. You should be able to tell what needs doing within say 10 miles.Best of luck with it! George
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Previously john_hawden wrote:

The clutch bearing only runs dry when you pull the clutch in, I grease this bearing up every few months and use chain lube on the chain.

That is a serious pain in the b#tt to have to strip the clutch out every few months to grease the bearings! Better to get the case oil tight'ish and work as it was designed to, surely?

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I seem to have enough 'bonding' going on without that, George! If I have to go into the chaincase for any reason, I do as you do, slip the casing back on dry, having oiled or greased the chain, test it out, be it for charging, clutch operation or whatever, then having made final adjustments, attempt to seal it as best possible with good quality silicone gasket. Leave overnight to set, then final tighten in the morning, add oil, job's a good'n...... well, hopefully not too bad! I wouldn't use the silicone gasket anywhere else on the engine, but it is ok in this application, imo.

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I used Scapa 3259 sticky back neoprene gasket (suggested on this website). Needed a bit of "paring" but is reasonably oil tight. A bit of oil proof grease to help the cover on an hey presto! George
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I'm nearly sure I got this sealing technique from this website, it works provided the outer case is not distorted. Bond the inner face of the rubber band to the inner chain case using silicon or similar (does not even need to be bonded all the way round, just the lower half). Smear red rubber grease (does not cause the band to soften or swell) all the way round the outer face of the band, this will both seal and help the outer case slide over the band. It also makes removal of the case a doddle. This is working well on both my '37 & '56 singles. The oil is not escaping past the rubber band but water is getting in from somewhere, must stop riding in the rain! Advice on dealing with a distorted case is also available somewhere on this site.

Ian McD

 


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