Model 50 Oil Non Return Valve

Previously john_holmes wrote:

The only true cure is for a non return valve after the pump feedside outlet like the A10 and C15 where it is in the timing side crankcase, the pump is much more efficient at pushing oil out than pulling it in especially if air has got in. This would entail an engine strip and machining of the case. That would still leave the leak inside the pump from the feedside to the scavenge side via the shafts, you can machine the pump body for O or X rings. On a single with a roller big end I would let it wet sump and after the first start of day let it idle until the sump is clear.

Many thanks for your reply. Alas, I am not technically capable of machining the crankcase. So, will have to live with it as it is or seek an alternative, easier solution.

Previously Barry Carson wrote:

just to bore you to death. after i had my es2 engine done i thought i would put some sort of system on just incase. as seen in the photo. along with the tap/ball valve i fitted a small strong magnet on the end of the handle (1). i also fitted a bracket with two pieces of tube i shaped and brazed into place . then inserted a reed switch into the end of each tube and glued them in. i ran the wires off the switches through the tubes . i wired one for a buzzer and one for a light. so when i turned the ign switch on (electronic) position ( 3 ) (oil off) it starts the buzzer which stays on all the time until you turn the tap to position ( 2 ) the buzzer stops then the green light comes on (oil on) and stays on while the bike is running. plus the clear pipes give a visual as well.

Barry

Many thanks for full response. This all sounds very complicated and elaborate. Not sure I'm up to this. Thanks anyway.

Previously rod_thompson wrote:

On my 500T I have no non-return or shut off valve in the oil feed line. When I first start it after a long period without use, usually a maximum of about a month, I just check that there is sufficient oil left in the tank, start the engine and let it idle until the tank has refilled itself and the smoke has died down!

The best and easiest cure for wet sumping is regular use, even if you don't fancy going out for a ride in the snow just nip out to the garage to start and run the engine for a few minutes.

Rod

Thanks for this. Could be my kind of solution !

Previously David Cooper wrote:

On my twin, I used to have what looks like a washing machine type 1/4" ball valve. The lever was modified into a cam shape that opened an electrical switch to the ignition when the oil was switched off. Totally foolproof.

I took it off when I re-fitted the magneto, since it would need the switch contacts to be closed when the oil is closed - to be wired in parallel to the magneto cut-off wire.

The singles have no cut off (owing to decompressor of course) so it's not a lot of use for them. Unless an earth cut out can be fitted to the magdyno magneto?

Oddly - my 16H hardly wet sumps at all, whereas the Dommie does in a couple of weeks or less. I wonder why? I even wonder if the 16H has the prewar white metal pump body as opposed to the later iron type. Though why that should help baffles me. Maybe the 16H mileage (about 4500 on the clock, which has a 1937 date stamp) really is genuine and it is simply not yet worn away much.

Thanks for reply. Mine is a single. For now I'm going to see how bad the wet sumping becomes.