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Mk.3 crankshaft end float

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Hi Guys,

I am restoring a MK3 and have replaced the main bearings did a test fit of the crank and had no float.

So I to make sure the bearings were full home popped them out, reseated them then tried the crank again this time there was some float but the cases were still warm. Now the cases have cooled there is again no float.

Reading the manual there should be .010 to .024.

Have I done something stupid, I will bring this up at the Bristol NOC meeting but thought I would ask here first.

Any ideas?

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Hi Gary,

I too have had this issue, but on a '57 Domminator engine. I was never able to solve it. I assembled it and rode it. I am almost anxious to tear it down to see if the clearance has changed. I made certain that both races were fully set into the crankcases & the inner races were fully seated on the crank. Still a mystery to me, but I didn't want your post to get lost down the page.

Skip Brolund

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Previously wrote:

Hi Guys,

I am restoring a MK3 and have replaced the main bearings did a test fit of the crank and had no float.

So I to make sure the bearings were full home popped them out, reseated them then tried the crank again this time there was some float but the cases were still warm. Now the cases have cooled there is again no float.

Reading the manual there should be .010 to .024.

Have I done something stupid, I will bring this up at the Bristol NOC meeting but thought I would ask here first.

Any ideas?

Have you checked the dimensions of the new bearings against the old ones? Could there be a difference that accounts for the lack of endfloat?

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You say you reseated the bearings. Do you mean in the cases and on the crank or just the cases? New bearings will not be out that much; these parts are precision items. When you pulled the inner races from the crank were there any shims present? How did you press the inner races on? Heat will let them drop in place but if too much heat is used they will blue and any shim(s) if not seated properly can allow the race to sit off the surface enough to decrease float. Try tapping the inners down till you get that nice ring telling you they're fully home.

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Thank you for the responses

Looks like one of the races on the crank was not sitting properly, have now removed this to check nothing was fouling it. Going to use a dial gauge and check the seat for any high points.

I have also dropped the bearing out of the crankcases to check the seats, only to find the timing side has been hit and there is three small splits. One of these is raised and would stop the bearing from seating properly. Not by much, but enough to give me no end float, I am a little disappointed that I did not spot this the first time I removed the bearing to check the seats.

I will apply some heat and knock these raised points flat, very carefully.

These splits are very small and do not go far in to the main bearing seat, so do not think they are a big issue. I do not want to double guess what caused it, but it looks like it has taken a hit just by the oil pump seat.

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Gary do you mean that you have three small cracks in your timing side crankcase? If so beware! Little cracks can become big cracks. If this is so I wouldn't be hitting them, heated or otherwise.

Cheers

Alan

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Yes that is correct Alan they are/were at the inner bearing seat.

Again you were correct adding heat would not have been a good idea, I took it to a friend with an engineering shop and he put it on one of the machines and took them out for me.

This bike must have been owned by some monkey during it's past, who must have only had a hammer and a few spanners for a tool kit. It ran when I got it with no smoke or knocking noises after taking the engine to pieces I am amazed it ran at all.

 


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