Idiot's Guides... take pity on me, please

Soungs like the fuel is not getting through.I would not change any of the settings as its most likely they are all ok !!.check the tank cap breathing and fuel flow ,possibility of blocked filter or pilot jet or carb passages. Changing settings before checking the basics will get you into nomans land.

You're certainly in at the deep end Roger, starting off with a non-runner. If the timing hasn't been fiddled with then it shouldn't have altered since it was last used. There is also a range of adjustment on the handlebar control.

It's worth checking if you have a tight wire or slack wire advance.

If you insert a thin feeler (or the proverbial fag paper) between the points and rotate the engine via the rear wheel, you can then measure the distance before TDC at which the feeler comes loose. It will at least let you know if yours has slipped by miles.

To be honest, if the pilot air screw is having no effect and needle is raied as far as it will go then I'd suspect a blocked carb drilling. The pilot fuel drillings are very small and to check them thoroughly, you'll need to remove the jet block. The mixing chamber needs heating by immersing in boiling water and the block should then push out from the top. Do you have the Type 76 with pilot air drillings around the mixing chamber or has it been replaced ?

The fuel for the pilot mixture is drawn through a drilling in front of the main jet but then has to pass through a tiny drilling on the engine side of the block before being fed into the inlet tract. If this drilling is blocked, it will give the symptoms that you describe.

If you're stuck, I can post some photos.

Take a good look at your carburator first of all,there is one ortwoVERY small holes above the pilot jet screw when you look inside the carb from the engine end.Clean this with a little sticker and blove through with air.This holes is normaly blocked if the bike have been standing for a while.This is very importent to the tickover.The needle high is more importent when the revs rises.Hope this is for help.

Best regards from Svein.

Yes, Roger. Those are the bits. It looks like the original Type 76. If you blow through the various orifices after cleaning, it's fairly obvious what goes where, but the tiny opening in the larger boring on the front edge of the block is critical to the pilot mixture. The jet block is actually soldered out of three parts so there is more to it internally than shows at first glance.

I see that your carb is fitted with a 'short' mixing chamber nut. I 'thought' (always dangerous) that these short nuts were typically fitted to side valves which need a rich mixture to aid the pick-up and that OHV engines generally had the longer nut. The presence of the short nut might suggest that a previous owner had substituted components in an attempt to cure weakness which might mean that he failed to get the jets clear or that other parts are incorrect.

It might be worth noting down the carb body number, slide cutaway and jet block number (It should be stamped '30' I believe).

There is something slightly odd about the shoulder inside the carb stub too. Is it damaged and causing an air leak or does it clamp up properly ?

Something to bear in mind with machines of this period, if the contemporary weeklies are to be believed is that many owners who were allowed fuel rations during the wartime or postwar period went to great lengths to obtain a few extra miles per gallon. If yours has ended up with a carb that has been 'adjusted' with this in mind then there could be several causes.

The air lever is normal used only when the engine is cold as a chokeand fully open under riding.

Set the pilot air screw about 1 1/4 turn open from bottom as a beginning.Adjust veryslowly when the engine is hot to the best tickover.Adjust also the throttle stop screw for best idling together with the pilot air screw.

Pilot air screw is mostfor starting and idling and a little for next step,the cutaway

Throttle cutaway is for the"take of" from idling. Lesser cutaway will give richer mixture from tickover.

Needle position is next step (about from one quart to three quart throttle).About normal riding.

Main jet size is for full throttle.

Excuse my bad english!

Good luck from Svein.Single is best!!!!!!!!!

The advance retard lever is only for starting the engine or climbing very steep hills. The timing should be set so it is correct at fully advanced on the lever, the lever is then used to retard the timing so the engine has less chance of kicking you back when starting it.

I am wondering about leaks in the exhaust causing the explosions in the exhaust. Another test which might be worth trying is to apply compressed air to the sparking plug hole with the valves closed. You might then be able to tell by listening at the carb and exhaust if there are any valve leaks.

If it were mine, I'd prefer to get the carburation sorted and use the long nut, as original. A higher fuel level can't improve economy and you still seem to be running lean if it prefers choke.

Is the main jet definitely marked '106' and not '160' ? It should be a 160. Body was 76/022 (1 1/16" bore) 6/4 slide and 64/069 float chamber. Do any of those markings tie in ?

Is the slide or body badly worn ? Air leaks round a rattling slide wouldn't help. These carbs are no longer available but someone like Martyn Bratby can sleeve and recondition as new.

The easiest thing, if you can find a member close, would be to try borrowing a suitable carb and substituting.

Hei Roger,ja visst er jeg norsk og det ser ut for at du kan bra svensk?

HÃ?per du fÃ?r i orden Nortonen,det er trivelige sykler. Har hatt forskjellige sykler men jeg faller tilbake til Norton single da det gjelder trivsel.(1955 19S og 1926 M18).

Det kan vÃ?re at du burde slipe venilene nÃ?r det gjelder "skytingen",men hvis det er lekkasje i eksosanlegget kan det ogsÃ? fÃ?re til skyting den veien nÃ?r du slÃ?r av gassen og hvis den er pÃ? sen tenning.

Nortonhilsner fra Svein.