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Help identify a thread

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Hi all - wondering if you can help?

I am trying to find out what thread the nut on the end of my crank is (the one that secures the rotor to the crankshaft)

I have a 1961 ES2 (62 model year) so the late distributor/alternator model.

We are in the process of putting a new three phase stator on with a new rotor, and thought this would be a great opportunity to replace the nut with one that is slightly less knackered!

Also, how would this nut have been retained originally? Tab Washer? Crinkle Washer?

Thanks as always for your help!

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I don't "know" what the thread is but its most likely to be cycle 26tpi. what i usually do in cases like this is to compare with my stock of nuts and bolts where i know what they are. I also have sets of taps and dies to compare with.Most bought at boot sales for peanuts.

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Thanks Robert,

We have a good selection of taps and dies, but unfortunately not in this size.

Our guess would be Cycle or BSF, but just looking for a bit of confirmation.

Cheers!

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Can't help with the thread - but it should have and it DOES NEED a special spring washer. Available from the usual suspects. Otherwise the rotor will come loose and wreck the stator, and damage the woodruff key and crankshaft keyway.

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Hi Grant,I think what Robert was trying to explain was, you can use a bolt or tap with a known TPI (threads per inch) to compare with your shaft. In other words, you could take a 1/4-26 bolt (thats 1/4" outside diameter by 26 threads per inch) and hold it next to the crank threads and see if the crank is also 26 TPI. Basicly you are using a known bolt or tap as a thread pitchgauge. Then take a micrometer, or even a cheap plastic dialvernier and check the outside diameter. Once you know the diameter & the TPI, your good to go. You could also take the part number, and Norvil & others will normally list the thread size in theircatalog.You can also hold a scale up to the threads & count how many threads per inch, or how many in a 1/2 inch, then double it.You can purchase Whitworth thread pitch gauges fairly cheap & it will pay for itself many times over, identifying threads.See :http://www.toolstop.co.uk/faithfull-pitchmw-screw-pitch-gauge-52-metric-whitworth-p42295Hope this helps,Skip Brolund
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Skip previously wrote:

Once you know the diameter & the TPI, your good to go.

Not quite! There are the thread angle and profile to consider. Luckily these are not generally to worry about on old Norton engines. British threads are usually 55 deg (but BA threads found on bikes are 47.5) and metric or US threads are 60 deg.

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One parts source I have states that for part number 465909 cross references to part number 01-20692 and that cross references to 01-000292 which states that is a 5/8X20tpi The books do not state whether it is right hand or left hand thread but I presume that it is right hand as there is no mention of it being left handed in the service manual.

Mike

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5/8 - 20 is a likely size. CEI threads in larger sizes were made in 20 tpi as well as 26. 20 would seem a sensible choice. If you want to make a nut, the biggest problem might be finding the correct size hexagonal bar.

Colin.

Previously wrote:

One parts source I have states that for part number 465909 cross references to part number 01-20692 and that cross references to 01-000292 which states that is a 5/8X20tpi The books do not state whether it is right hand or left hand thread but I presume that it is right hand as there is no mention of it being left handed in the service manual.

Mike

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Yes Allen, you are absolutely correct on the thread angle, I should have mentioned that. If you figure the difference between 55 degrees & 60 degrees is 5 degrees (total included angle) thats really only a difference of 2 1/2 degrees per side. Factor in a 1 - 1 1/2 degree tolerance & old threads, one might not be able to tell the difference? But right is right & you are correct & a thread pitch gauge is a big help with that concern also. Thanks for bringing that up :)

Skip Brlund

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thanks all that helped - yes it was indeed a Coarse Cycle thread (20TPI)

we sourced a decent die, and cleaned the thread up a treat... so hopefully good for a few more years to come!

Cheers!

 


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