Skip to main content
English French German Italian Spanish

Gearbox issues

Forums

I've stripped the gearbox from my 1936 model 18 as It requires a repair to the bottom pivot and also it jumps out of 3rd gear.

There is damage to the dogs on the second and third gears on the layshaft and the position of the damage suggests that the contact of the dogs is not evenly spread across the face.

Anyway, I'm not sure at this point what the main problem is but if I need to actually get hold of some new gears I could do with some information.

what, if any, is the compatibility with the gears from the later laydown box?

Is 'jumping out of third' in a dollshead box a known issue?

Many thanks,

Richard

Permalink

Peter Roydhouse, in the technical/singles/gearbox section, states that the gears for the upright and laydown boxes are identical and therefore interchangable. Try the club spares scheme for bits for your box. They provide an excellent service at very reasonable prices.

Permalink

Although no gear trouble with my 16H dolls head box, back in 1975 the laydown box in my 1955 19s Combo did jump out of 3rd. I learn't too ride without engaging third gear.

I asked an expert of the time 'why third gear ?' To be told that it is selected more than any other gear and therefore gets more wear. I don't think being packed with grease rather than gear oil will have helped either.

I should have had the box apart when the splines went on the kickstarter, but instead, had it welded to the shaft. Things you did back then in the inexperience of youth!

Permalink

Thanks for the input. I'm guessing that there must be some other issue for this amount of damage, possibly as well as the fact that they are used a lot on third gear. It's quite noticeable that the damage is all on the corners. Why would that be if the faces were parallel. I've also got some wear to the linkage from the foot change mechanism to the cam plate indexing mecanism, so maybe it just isnt actually fully engaging the dogs and the undercut is having to drag the gears in.

Anyway, will look at spares shemes stock and go from there.

Many thanks.

Permalink

Have you made sure the operating rod is correctly adjusted? Mine started jumping out of third and was transformed by adjusting the rod by one thread pitch. The rid needs to be slack both in second and third. ..
Permalink

Good point David, I made a slight adjustment to the rod on my dolls head box when I got it as I found the changes sloppy (Though not jumping out) And now it is a positive stop change as advertised. Incidentally, over a thousand miles later, I've never had to adjust it since. I use Castrol EP 140 gear oil.

Permalink

Adjustment. I will absolutely look at that, along with the 3/16" play in the linkage which is not going to exactly help. Just to return to my confusion about the wear pattern though, having mated the dogs on the 2nd and 3rd gears to look at them in mesh, it's obvious that they only operate with a point contact. The gears are correct for the box as far as I can see, both with N prefixes. The dogs on the mainshaft gears are bearing over the entire face which I'd expect. From a picture of a second hand gear from the spares scheme, I can again see this pattern of damage on the corner. Is this a co-incidence or a design or production error that was never dealt with? It doesn't look right to me.

I'm sorely tempted to just dress them up with a dremel and blue them up on the shaft. I know I'll thin the case hardening but at least they'll be running on a face.

Maybe the power output of the SV and OHV models wasn't enough to show it up (as long as the gears were well engaged). Did the inters ever have trouble with these gears?

Attachments 2014-07-20%2022.51.12.0.jpg 2014-07-20%2022.51.12.jpg
Permalink

Somewhere on the net (I thought it was this forum but I can't find it), there was quite a discussion about the machining of the Dollshead' dogs and the undercut.

The conclusion, which was illustrated is that in fact there does seem to have been an error in how these were originally drawn and then manufactured.

That said, hundreds of thousands of them have done hundreds of thousands of (mostly side-valve) miles so in practical terms, they so seem to keep working.

Permalink

I guess it's out of warranty now anyway.

On the subject of drawings, I've got wear to the ends of the bottom gearbox pivot/ retaining bolt casting where they (should have) clamped through the plates to the frame. I've got to have them welded and remachined and It would be really useful to have a figure for where it should be in relation to, for example, the front cover face.

Are production drawings available?

Permalink

Previously David Cooper wrote:

Have you made sure the operating rod is correctly adjusted? Mine started jumping out of third and was transformed by adjusting the rod by one thread pitch. The rid needs to be slack both in second and third. ..

I am having exactly the same problem with my dolls head gearbox despite a full rebuild. When you say 'make sure the operating rod is correctly adjusted' could you elaborate? I'm not sure what you mean by the operating rod.

Thanks in anticipation

Permalink

...the vertical rod from the selector lever coming out of the doll's head to the actuator level at her feet. It has clevis pins at top and bottom. There was some discussion and advice about this a few weeks back and somebody helpfully posted the Norton advice on adjusting.The cam plate inside the box has detents at each gear, but the change mechanism doesn't much discriminate at the ends (1st and 4th) since that's as far as the selector can travel anyway so unless things are grossly wrong the change cannot overshoot or undershoot 1st and 4th. But it must locate 2nd and 3rd accurately. The rod length can be adjusted until both clevis pins are slack when in 2nd and 3rd gears. It only has a thread at one end, so the top pin must be taken out, the lock nut loosened, and the clevis turned half a turn at a time. Mine was set too short so it undershot selection into 3rd gear.
Permalink

Thanks for the information David. I will check the adjustment when I get chance. I've just got back from a weekend in the Isle of Man with the old girl (ES2 that is). Apart from the 3rd gear issues she ran really well. I did 2 laps of the TT circuit on her touching 80mph down Creg-ny-baa with a 1938 500 Red Hunter on my tail.

Permalink

Previously Richard Moss wrote:

Thanks for the input. I'm guessing that there must be some other issue for this amount of damage, possibly as well as the fact that they are used a lot on third gear. It's quite noticeable that the damage is all on the corners. Why would that be if the faces were parallel. I've also got some wear to the linkage from the foot change mechanism to the cam plate indexing mecanism, so maybe it just isnt actually fully engaging the dogs and the undercut is having to drag the gears in.

Anyway, will look at spares shemes stock and go from there.

Many thanks.

Of the boxes I have used snicking out of third is the most common problem and in the main has been remedied by setting up the positive stop indexing mechanism rather than dog wear... Seems the throw is marginal if thee is any slack in the linkage.

Permalink

It probably isn't a design problem with the third gear, but more likely a reflection that most of these bikes will have spent years pulling heavy chairs, where third gear is predominantly used.

 


Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans