Fitting Electronic Ignition to 6v Bikes

Further on 6V electronic ignitions-DO NOT on any machine. Yes some manage it but the potential for a disaster is very high. The alternator output/battery charge can rise very high momentarily, and pop goes your 6V ignition.
6v Wipac systems on our lightweights-as Andy stated the original system has a resistor built into the loom. NOBODY has been able to replicate this system. I have seen two dangerous attempts, luckily in my Black Museum, safely out of circuit (pun intended). I do sell a resistor that will do this job properly if you must continue with 6V points ignition. BUT it is NOT recommended for electronic ignition on 6V.
And another thing-if any electrical part you buy which is non standard it MUST have fitting/wiring instruction. If NOT then part is NOT FIT for PURPOSE. If the supplier of that part can't advise you then reject the part-NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE.

I have fitted a 6v Pazon to my Venom, and so far no problems. It seems to run a bit 'smoother' if anything and starts first kick ( it nearly always did anyway) . Not as easy as my M 50, but nothing is! Maybe it's because I still have the dynamo fitted to the Venom, or am I just lucky so far?
Regards John O

Yes but, the dynamo will give a better regulated charge voltage hence less chance of a failed ignition, but you still have to rely on a good battery starting voltage and Ahr as of course the dynamo was not intended to run coil ignition. There is an increased chance of stopping when/if your battery runs out. So starting with a good battery is essential and the long term reliability for long journeys is under suspicion.

If you really want to stick with a 6V system, then you can always use the A-Reg 6, for 6V, 200W capability to do the regulation.
Not standard, but then electronic ignition is not standard so that should not be an issue.

Al - Can you confim that the A-Reg 6 would solve the 6V issue?

In this scenario the Areg6 might very well stabilise the battery voltage to be ok. But if the A reg did fail-HIGH OUTPUT then you tend to loose your 6V ignition as well. And with this system and the wonders of electronic the ignition will dye very quickly-seconds, if the system voltage does go high.
The 12v system can do the same but there is more tolerance with 12V. Obviously if the charging system goes high volts for a short while the battery will tolerate it.
But going back to the original point, using 6V electronic ignition with the original alternator control with the wire resistor in the Wipac loom I do NOT recommend.
Another point with this idea paying for the A reg 6 you might as well go for the 12V conversion, yes battery and bulbs are needed, But Batteries have a short life compared to the rest of the bits on these bikes.

Richard-the one who wanted a 6V ignition on his Navie -further to Andy S advises, I have a lot of information on my web site  aosrevices.co.uk  with regard to 12V Navie. Modifying a Domie loom with thin wires is not recommended, the time taken to make this work can be the same as using one of my wiring kits, but the latter will give a better long term result.

... full electronic ignition why not consider transistor aided (Inductive Discharge) system which will retain the existing points but use them solely to switch very low current? BB do them in 6V and 12V variants.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/IDunits.html

If the Navi had a single set of points and a distributor, then that would work, but you still have the awful advance / retard.

As the Navi has two sets of points, then you would need two of the ID units.

Not a good idea. 

You would need 2 of these units, and all you would succeed in doing is to reduce points burning, which in this machine is not an issue. The whole point of Boyer Bransden ignition (or Pazon) on the parallel twin is the wasted spark that makes it the same timing on both cylinders. Almost essential on these bikes.

... you can wire the points in parallel as only one is closed at a time. You can then run the system as wasted spark as there will be a point opening each TDC. I successfully did this with a small unit Triumph twin I fitted into a Greeves frame and it ran well. I didn't bother with the ID system however.

My advice-do not do this unless YOU know what you are doing.

I'm reading something about a resistor or resistor wire (?) built into the loom. I thought the regulator would prevent the battery from overcharging, but I'm the first to hold his hands up to admit electrics are still not fully understood by me. However, I'm always keen to learn.

My Model 50 has a magdyno and its wiring loom has been hand built by the previous owner. How can I identify such a resistor or resistor wire?

Cheers,

Tim

This resistor is ONLY used on Wipac alternator systems used on the Lightweights, they do NOT have a regulator. Regulation is done by switching of the alternator windings similar to the 6V Lucas alternator system The resistor was never used on Lucas alternator systems or on Dynamos systems. The resistor cannot be remade in today’s after market loom manufacture, as I have said before, I have seen several dangerous attempts at this resistor, but I can supply a safe item for the job.
In a magdyno the dynamo out put control is done with a Dynamo regulator. By the way this is the lightweight Forum.

Thanks for the explanation. I know it's the Lightweight forum, but am interested in expanding my knowledge. Which is, as you now know, lacking profoundly. Every day is a schoolday. Or it should be...