first is the primary side engine sprocket nut, I believe I have the original nut that has a small rebate inside where it bolts to the sprocket, I have a earlier parts list for 1950 and wondered if there was a sprung washer under this nut ?parts book does not show this part for the model 30 and no washer on the es2 so just tighten the nut up direct to the sprocket nice and tight ?
secondly the engine came with a very nicely made exhaust rose as pictured, before I butcher it up by drilling a series of holes in the front of it to tighten it up with, is it a special profile that uses some kind of special spanner, there are no pegs between the double row flanges, so I can not see how to tighten without damage to the outer rings, I also considered fitting pegs then to adapt a c spanner on them but it is a narrow internal flange.
your thought welcome, Arthur.
Modification?
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Arthur The sprocket nut has…
Arthur
The sprocket nut has no washer, I think you will find that there is no room for any !
As suggested you could mill notches and use a c-spanner or you could drill holes
and use a peg spanner. (search ebay for c-spanner or peg spanner and get the
correct size. But whatever you do, please do NOT use any form of hammering on and off !
Regards
Arne
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Question...
... is it made up of two parts? Threaded and flanges? It looks to be different finishes on the inside. I would be a bit concerned that it will loosen being a bright steel item in an aluminium head. If you persevere with it, pegs from the inner flange, indexed drilled partially into the front flange or maybe some parallel flats on the edge of the inner flange and make a bespoke key to tighten. Don’t forget to put a through hole at some point to put a security write through.
cheers
jon
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If the threads in the head…
If the threads in the head are OK, why not throw away the home made flange and replace it with a standard one? That one may be a pretty piece of lathe work (possibly because PO had a lathe and wanted to do something with it..) but it's not much use as an exhaust rose.
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It looks a bit like the one…
It looks a bit like the one on my Manx when I bought it. On the shortstroke ones, there is so big cooling fins that it's just barely possible to use a normal exhaust rose and spanner. Sadly the exhaust is welded to the megaphone so I can't use it with my silenced exhaust. I'd love to have one.
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thank you all , the home…
thank you all , the home made stainless exhaust nut is one piece it is a dirt make where I checked it sliding in on the old pipe regards one or two pieces , it is a nice fit to the threads in the head but as you mention I think you are right it will damage my head on reflection. the steel ones on the commando I had in 1974 caused the exhaust threads to chatter and were repaired under warranty . I have some rgm brass ones in the commando I have now and they are good so I think I will follow the advise and get a correct one for the inter, I do have a used short threaded one that was in a box, nickled brass with holes and half inch of thread that is incorrect as it fouls the head casting being three and an eight inch diameter and would not reach the flange [ steel home made has 7/8ths thread and is two and 13/16ths diameter and clears under the head top aluminium casting. so once again thank you I had no idea why the chap made the fancy one but would prefer no head damage . great to use this forum in these strange times when isolated. Arthur.
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On this business of nuts…
On this business of nuts coming loose. It happened once on my Dommie but really it seems to be a Commando problem. Because of conflict between the isolastics and the exhaust mount to the frame. I lock wire mine on the (iron head) Inter just so there's one fewer of the things to worry about. I use copper slip grease to help get it nice and tight and not to seize up.
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Could you not have some notches milled in the edges which would then allow you to use some kind of tool that would allow you to pull it around? Or with the notches in place you could use a large punch to tighten it up?
Mike