ES2 / AMC Clutch Engagement

We appreciate your comprehensive message but just to be sure of things, because to push a bike in gear in 4th gear (top) gear is very strange, as one would usually test the bike by push by putting the bike in 1st gear or second with the plug out.

Anyway 1st question: Does the clutch slip when pushing in the lower gears too?

The reason I ask is that when you kick start the bike, it can turn over the engine (the clutch transmits enough force) but pushing the bike in gear is NO different to transmitting power back through the clutch to kick-starting...so it seems odd straightaway; this is why I need to clarify what is actually happening.

Les.

Deleted repeat message server caused problem....Les

Where do you live Josh?.

Hi Josh,

It sounds like the external gearchange linkage rod might not be adjusted long enough to engage top gear. If the clevis hole/pins are worn this is a common problem in setting the adjustment to get bottom and top gear due to the excessive play in these parts.

Regards, Richard.

When my Doll's Head box started to lose gears I found it was a loose nut on the end of the top most shaft supporting the rocking ratchet at the top. Your box has the same detail up at the equivalent of the doll's forehead. Might be worth looking at. My false neutrals turned up when I was hoping for third gear. But if your rod is not pushing far enough you might not be getting in to fourth.

Good Luck

David

Hello Josh, if the clutch is slipping in 4th gear, so much that you can push the machine,it is also going to slip in 3rd, 2nd and 1st,...... plus,.... when you actuate the kick starter. Looking at your pictures, I see that the worm actuating arm to clutch cable run is more like 90deg. (don't worry about the horizon), its to the cable you want to get the angle correctto maximize the cable pull to clutch rod movement. From MINIMUM loose cable to maximum pull, half way through the worm armarc should be90deg. to cable run. (the cable isn't vertical to the horizon).The 1/8"free play between worm and rod puzzles me. This isn't the correct clearance, by far. Though, with this adjustment, this will have nothing to do with clutch slip.................... I think you have a possible gear selector problem.

Hi Josh....forget what happens when you push the bike. Fit the plug and then ride it. Tell us what problems you have when you do so. I am still puzzled as to what your real problem is. If you can kick start it?...Great... that is good, Does it drive normally?...that is obviously good.....Does the clutch slip when you accelerate?....That is not good!....OR is it something else.

PLEASE answer inside the writing box at the bottom of this page [DO NOT PRESS REPLY TO THIS] as this thread is getting really hard to follow!....Many Thanks, I'm sure things can be sorted.

Les

bit lost here but I have an AMC clutch on an AMC gearbox, there are differing pressure plate thicknesses, are you aware of this? different number of plates recommended for small or larger engines, there are lots of postings and advice for these clutches on the AJS/Natchless owners club site, you can acess this by becoming a guest for I think it is a month, could be three, by the way plates run dry, well as much as possible, the oil should only lubricate chain and bearings. 'tis quite a simple straightforward clutch. kind regards

As George says - why not give it a go?

How have you adjusted the centre screw on the pressure plate? With the newer design, the lever position depends on the gearbox assembly. So the centres screw must be backed off to provide a small clearance so the release mechanism does not drag as you go along.

But the older design the operation is by the worm so there is no centre screw to adjust. All you do is change the position of the cable level so it is roughly level and 90 degrees to the cable as the clutch approaches full lift off and the cable is slightly slack when the level is released.

The later push rod runs all the way through the gearbox shaft from the gear box internal lever to the adjusting screw. The old one stops short where it meets the mushroom.

It should be easy to see if the clutch is slipping if the primary chain case is removed just by spannering the crankshaftcentre nut around whilst holding the back tyre with in in gear.

You have not left the mushroom in place have you? I've no idea how the dimensions stack up but maybe if you have, could it be jamming against the adjusting screw on the pressure plate, thus lifting the pressure plate and separating the friction plates? Then the clutch would not engage but the lever would still feel the same as usual.

(I don't know what objection the late, great George had against the earlier clutch but that's a another issue entirely.)

David

On a seperate point, when I put an amc spider in my Norton clutch it moved it a bit further from the chain case and I needed a engine sprocket with a bigger offset to keep the primary chain in line. RGM stock them all.

Dan

Sounds like clutch slip is the problem. Just increase the spring pressure by turning the three adjusters in equally til it grips. Usually a badly slipping clutch will not allow kickstarting, or make it rather more difficult at least. First be sure your clutch rod is not adjusted up too tight & touching the pressure plate at rest.