Engine rebuilders??

Why even consider changing the electrics, how often will you ride at night? If you have been fortunate enough to obtain a '63 Dominator, with only one previous owner, keep it original! Sorry, I can't recommend an engine re-builder, I now live in Spain. John.

There are several firms offering solid state combined rectifier/regulators, and just by connecting the 6V alternator up to it correctly it will produce 12V (it is claimed). It is like a combined rectifier and zener diode. The India Enfield ones on eBay are only about £10.

Apart from that you have to change the battery (I am thinking that a new battery is on the cards anyway) all the bulbs, the coil and maybe the horn (though sometimes 6V horns seem to work OK on 12V).

You may want to go -ve earth so that you can get and fit led bulbs more easily, no downside that I know of.

I live between Harrow and Watford and will have all the necessary tools by the time I am finished with my own Dominator engine rebuild, if you get a surge of enthusiasm. What model is it and do you really, really want to tune and tweak it?

Steve

Previously wrote:

Hello

I have recently been fortunate enough to full fill a boyhood dream and acquire a 63 Dominator that has been dry stored since 77. It had just completed a European tour and was running when it went into storage. Its previous keeper who had owned it since new informs me that the gear-box was in good order but believes it was due a full engine rebuild. I have rebuilt numerous bike engines in the past and as much as I would love to have a go at this one its unlikely that I will find the time.

I am in North London and any recommendations for a decent engine re builder that can add modern tweaks and tuning will be most appreciated.

Also looking for advice regarding the electrics. It is still running a 6v system. How best to upgrade?

Cheers, JJ.

Hello Well For a Start You Bike must of been old stock , Has Norton stopped building the Model 77 on September 1958, if its been stud for some time it may be OK but it all depends on how long its been stud , These Machine where built for sidecar work and touring There Not a Machine to be tuned , as the Engine will Not like being Tuned ,as it may over stress the motor ,good part are get hard to FIND for These Machine And the model (99) And (650) Thing like Pistons And Rings , The GMP ones are heaver than the original items and GMP piston rings will not fit the BHB or Hepolite pistons As the radius is different, I found out to my cost, Main Bearings I would only fit the original items like R&M main bearing as the FAG bearing now made in China under a German License , they are checked for quality but you can not all way tell what lies beneath and whats in the metal that the Chinese use, I have seen some of the motorcycles they built , and they do not last long, As for your electrics you can get the RM21 12v and power box from Sparx electrics there on the web , So be very methodical When it comes to an Full Engine Rebuild and work very cleanly too have good part boxes and measure every thing ,and make a list of what you have done, and see that all the parts are with in there tolerance before you reassemble your engine , Hope something are may help , your AJD

Anna, if you re-read the original posting, Jason has a '63 Domi which has been standing since 1977. It is not a model 77. Agree with you that a 12v upgrade is a good idea. Gordon.

Jason

I should have said that Roger at Fullbore Motorcycles in West Watford is a sound guy and specialises in brit bikes and H*rl*ys, and sensible prices (but not real quick on the turn around). Not so much of the H*rl*ys these days. I am sure he would take on a Norton twin engine rebuild for you, I guess he would pick it up from your place if necessary.

Steve

Previously wrote:

Anna, if you re-read the original posting, Jason has a '63 Domi which has been standing since 1977. It is not a model 77. Agree with you that a 12v upgrade is a good idea. Gordon.

Hello Gordon sorry mate my eye are not the best at night, and I am still waiting for cataract to be removed on my left eye its sometime throws the right eye out ! so I have to shut my left eye to see with one eye, this is why you will not see me out on my Norton for wile , yours Anna J Dixon

Hi Jason, no I have not forgotten what the U.K. weather is like, that's why I live in Spain! Back in 1957, I was riding a '53 Dominator from Weeton (near Blackpool) to S.E.London most weekends. No motorways in those days, a journey of just over 250 miles each way took 5 hours in daylight, and about 6 going back at night. This was with 6 volt dynamo lighting, an alternator should give better light (especially with modern halogen bulbs). I have never believed "running lights", or "high visibility" clothing, are much protection against other road users. Far better to assume you are invisible, and assume everyone else is blind. This worked for me, and, I have been riding nearly 60 years without serious accident. I have nothing against 12 volt lighting systems, but a 6 volt bulb (of the same wattage) will provide just as much light, although drawing double the amperage (volts x amps = watts). Restoration does not come cheap nowdays, the money could be better spent elsewhere. John.

Johm previously wrote:

Far better to assume you are invisible, and assume everyone else is blind.

That's the best approach.

Why does the motor need to be re-built? Have you run it? You cannot be doing it just for fun if you are getting somebody else to do it anyway...

You don't say if it is coil or magneto. In 1963 the SS machines had mags - but 'standard' models probably had coils. Obviously if you have a mag then the 12 volt change is easier with no coils to change. The obvious thing to do is to disconnect the intermediate output wire from the 3-wire alternator and run the maximum output wires through a regulator such as a Boyer Power Box. If you have coil ignition then coils will need changing. A good thing about the Power Box is that in the event of a flat battery you can still start the bike. Disconnect the battery when kicking it over so the alternator output charges the capacitor in the box rather than going to waste into the battery. Then as soon as it fires, re-connect the battery.

But even with dry storage a magneto last used in 1977 probably has a faulty condensor - it will most likely only start the bike when it is cold.

The problem as I understand it with 6 volts is mostly that the lower the voltage, the more likely that you will have poor switch and plug contact. So even for 12 volts you can get away with base metal switch contacts but for very low voltages (e.g. computers) you must have gold plated contacts for reliability. If the bike is normally kept warm and dry then 6 volts should not be a problem - but cold damp sheds are poor places for 6 volt systems.